Women sometimes feel defensive, apprehensive and even intimidated by having to bring their car or truck in for repairs. Purchasing a new or used vehicle can be twice as bad. Here are a few strategies to try that will help you gain the respect you deserve.
First, as with choosing any retailer or service provider from plumbers to doctors, ask friends and relatives for referrals and then build a rapport. If I went to my doctor with an earache and he told me I need my spleen removed, I’d believe him. If you bring your car to your mechanic with a dead battery and they tell you it needs an expensive electronic brake module that’s causing the battery to drain overnight, you have to believe him. Of course trust has to be earned, so choosing a reputable repair shop or dealership is just the beginning. You then need to patronize them for not only repairs, but for oil changes, tire rotations, and other common maintenance items. After all, you probably first visited your doctor with cold or flu symptoms or aches and pains – not because you suspected internal bleeding, a brain tumor or a ruptured spleen.
You will gain confidence in them with every oil change, and they will value and respect you as a steady customer. Most businesses realize that they spend lots of money advertising to gain new customers. Once you have a customer, it makes good sense to try to keep her, or him, rather than lose them and then spend more money to replace them.
To avoid feeling defensive dealing with the male dominated automotive field, do some homework. Knowledge is power and the internet is a valuable educational tool. Links listed on this website can help you.
If you’re looking to buy a car, there are several sites that will help you choose which models will suite your needs and let you compare features side by side. Sites like Kelly Blue Book www.kbb.com and Edmunds www.edmunds.com offer pricing, ratings and even independent reviews of all types of new and used cars and trucks.
If your facing a repair issue, a google search of the symptom, make and model can provide results that will help give you an idea of what your facing. Now, when you get to the repair shop you’ll be better able to describe the condition – what the noise sounds like, when the vibration is felt, etc. Also, you’ll have an idea of what’s involved in repairing the problem. If it’s a common concern, which many concerns are, you’ll be a more educated consumer and feel more confident about bringing the car in, more assured that the repairs will be effective and that you’re paying a reasonable price. In some cases common concerns may be covered under warranty or recall coverage – call the manufacturer for clarification.
For added peace of mind, ask for a written estimate before any repairs are performed and ask for the old parts back. These are steps that warranty companies take to help ensure that they are not exploited. You should do the same.
Monday, October 13, 2008
Monday, October 6, 2008
Ms Goodwrench
Women sometimes feel defensive, apprehensive and even intimidated by having to bring their car or truck in for repairs. Purchasing a new or used vehicle can be twice as bad. Here are a few strategies to try that will help you gain the respect you deserve.
First, as with choosing any retailer or service provider from plumbers to doctors, ask friends and relatives for referrals and then build a rapport. If I went to my doctor with an earache and he told me I need my spleen removed, I’d believe him. If you bring your car to your mechanic with a dead battery and they tell you it needs an expensive electronic brake module that’s causing the battery to drain overnight, you have to believe him. Of course trust has to be earned, so choosing a reputable repair shop or dealership is just the beginning. You then need to patronize them for not only repairs, but for oil changes, tire rotations, and other common maintenance items. After all, you probably first visited your doctor with cold or flu symptoms or aches and pains – not because you suspected internal bleeding, a brain tumor or a ruptured spleen.
You will gain confidence in them with every oil change, and they will value and respect you as a steady customer. Most businesses realize that they spend lots of money advertising to gain new customers. Once you have a customer, it makes good sense to try to keep her, or him, rather than lose them and then spend more money to replace them.
To avoid feeling defensive dealing with the male dominated automotive field, do some homework. Knowledge is power and the internet is a valuable educational tool. Links listed on this website can help you.
If you’re looking to buy a car, there are several sites that will help you choose which models will suite your needs and let you compare features side by side. Sites like Kelly Blue Book www.kbb.com and Edmunds www.edmunds.com offer pricing, ratings and even independent reviews of all types of new and used cars and trucks.
If your facing a repair issue, a google search of the symptom, make and model can provide results that will help give you an idea of what your facing. Now, when you get to the repair shop you’ll be better able to describe the condition – what the noise sounds like, when the vibration is felt, etc. Also, you’ll have an idea of what’s involved in repairing the problem. If it’s a common concern, which many concerns are, you’ll be a more educated consumer and feel more confident about bringing the car in, more assured that the repairs will be effective and that you’re paying a reasonable price. In some cases common concerns may be covered under warranty or recall coverage – call the manufacturer for clarification.
For added peace of mind, ask for a written estimate before any repairs are performed and ask for the old parts back. These are steps that warranty companies take to help ensure that they are not exploited. You should do the same.
First, as with choosing any retailer or service provider from plumbers to doctors, ask friends and relatives for referrals and then build a rapport. If I went to my doctor with an earache and he told me I need my spleen removed, I’d believe him. If you bring your car to your mechanic with a dead battery and they tell you it needs an expensive electronic brake module that’s causing the battery to drain overnight, you have to believe him. Of course trust has to be earned, so choosing a reputable repair shop or dealership is just the beginning. You then need to patronize them for not only repairs, but for oil changes, tire rotations, and other common maintenance items. After all, you probably first visited your doctor with cold or flu symptoms or aches and pains – not because you suspected internal bleeding, a brain tumor or a ruptured spleen.
You will gain confidence in them with every oil change, and they will value and respect you as a steady customer. Most businesses realize that they spend lots of money advertising to gain new customers. Once you have a customer, it makes good sense to try to keep her, or him, rather than lose them and then spend more money to replace them.
To avoid feeling defensive dealing with the male dominated automotive field, do some homework. Knowledge is power and the internet is a valuable educational tool. Links listed on this website can help you.
If you’re looking to buy a car, there are several sites that will help you choose which models will suite your needs and let you compare features side by side. Sites like Kelly Blue Book www.kbb.com and Edmunds www.edmunds.com offer pricing, ratings and even independent reviews of all types of new and used cars and trucks.
If your facing a repair issue, a google search of the symptom, make and model can provide results that will help give you an idea of what your facing. Now, when you get to the repair shop you’ll be better able to describe the condition – what the noise sounds like, when the vibration is felt, etc. Also, you’ll have an idea of what’s involved in repairing the problem. If it’s a common concern, which many concerns are, you’ll be a more educated consumer and feel more confident about bringing the car in, more assured that the repairs will be effective and that you’re paying a reasonable price. In some cases common concerns may be covered under warranty or recall coverage – call the manufacturer for clarification.
For added peace of mind, ask for a written estimate before any repairs are performed and ask for the old parts back. These are steps that warranty companies take to help ensure that they are not exploited. You should do the same.
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Defect or Damage
Every new vehicle warranty commits to addressing defects in material or workmanship. This is the manufacturer’s way of promoting quality in their product. They stand behind it, so it must be made well. Elsewhere in your warranty booklet you will find an area titled “what is not covered.” Here, they generally describe the conditions in which the warranty plays no role. If a vehicle is neglected, abused, damaged, or used in a fashion for which it was not intended, the warranty may be compromised or voided. This generally includes racing, extreme off road use, overloading or exceeding the towing capacity.
So if for example, while driving down the road a stone hits your windshield and cracks it - that is not a warrantable condition. If you go to pull into your driveway, and as you’re turning and going over the curb the windshield cracks – that is a warrantable failure. What’s the difference? In the first scenario there was an external influence that neither the manufacturer, nor you, could control – the stone. In the second instance, the vehicle was being used as intended, yet the failure occurred without external influence. Therefore, either a flaw in the glass or improper installation is the most likely cause of the failure.
One more – you decided to boycott the local car wash for unfair labor practices. After two years they unionize, so you reestablish a relationship and have them remove the accumulated road grime, tar, bird droppings and the insect graveyard from your vehicle. Once completed you notice that the paint is stained, blistered, faded and peeling. No big surprise, and no warranty coverage either. This is a case of neglect.
These are relatively cut and dry examples. Most times there are grey areas that become the real issue – such as racing is prohibited yet the Corvette is marketed as a sports car which can attain speeds well in excess of 100 mph. Similarly, four wheel drive trucks are intended for off road use but, if the truck is buried in two feet of mud, whose fault is that?
If you should find yourself in a situation where you are told that a repair cannot be covered under the terms of the warranty, and you are not agreeable to their explanation of why, try contacting your insurance agent. If there was a stone that cracked your windshield, there will be evidence of the impact and your automobile insurance will likely cover it. If not, call customer assistance - even if it's not a factory defect, the manufacturer may assist you as a goodwill gesture.
So if for example, while driving down the road a stone hits your windshield and cracks it - that is not a warrantable condition. If you go to pull into your driveway, and as you’re turning and going over the curb the windshield cracks – that is a warrantable failure. What’s the difference? In the first scenario there was an external influence that neither the manufacturer, nor you, could control – the stone. In the second instance, the vehicle was being used as intended, yet the failure occurred without external influence. Therefore, either a flaw in the glass or improper installation is the most likely cause of the failure.
One more – you decided to boycott the local car wash for unfair labor practices. After two years they unionize, so you reestablish a relationship and have them remove the accumulated road grime, tar, bird droppings and the insect graveyard from your vehicle. Once completed you notice that the paint is stained, blistered, faded and peeling. No big surprise, and no warranty coverage either. This is a case of neglect.
These are relatively cut and dry examples. Most times there are grey areas that become the real issue – such as racing is prohibited yet the Corvette is marketed as a sports car which can attain speeds well in excess of 100 mph. Similarly, four wheel drive trucks are intended for off road use but, if the truck is buried in two feet of mud, whose fault is that?
If you should find yourself in a situation where you are told that a repair cannot be covered under the terms of the warranty, and you are not agreeable to their explanation of why, try contacting your insurance agent. If there was a stone that cracked your windshield, there will be evidence of the impact and your automobile insurance will likely cover it. If not, call customer assistance - even if it's not a factory defect, the manufacturer may assist you as a goodwill gesture.
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Battery Warranty Coverage
On GM vehicles, batteries are covered in 3 ways:
1. The original equipment battery is covered under the terms of the new vehicle, bumper to bumper warranty.
2. If that battery is replaced under warranty, the replacement battery is covered for the remainder of the new vehicle warranty; or 12months/12,000 miles – whichever is greater.
3. When you purchase an AC Delco battery, the AC Delco Warranty Program covers it. AC Delco offers 18 or 24 month free replacement coverage followed by a pro-ration period – diagnosis and labor to replace the battery is not covered.
Refer to AC Delco (800-223-3526) or www.acdelco.com/ for details.
If the battery develops an acid leak, this is something that AC Delco will consider helping with even if it’s beyond the normal warranty period. A leaking battery often causes consequential damage. The battery cables, battery tray, even air conditioning lines and wiring harnesses may be damaged by the acid dripping on them.
If you’re stuck and have to get the vehicle repaired at an independent repair facility, be sure to get an itemized receipt with a good description of what was damaged and replaced. Ask them to save the old parts and seal them in a plastic bag as evidence for your local dealer to see. You probably wont want the leaky battery back so be sure the repair shop notes the receipt with the AC Delco identification number and/or take a photo of it.
If the battery was the original with the vehicle, call customer assistance. If the battery was an AC Delco replacement, contact them instead.
Remember that if the vehicle is still under the bumper t bumper warranty you should be entitled to courtesy transportation as long as the failure was not caused by collision, neglect or abuse. Unfortunately, AC Delco's warranty does not provide any such benefits
1. The original equipment battery is covered under the terms of the new vehicle, bumper to bumper warranty.
2. If that battery is replaced under warranty, the replacement battery is covered for the remainder of the new vehicle warranty; or 12months/12,000 miles – whichever is greater.
3. When you purchase an AC Delco battery, the AC Delco Warranty Program covers it. AC Delco offers 18 or 24 month free replacement coverage followed by a pro-ration period – diagnosis and labor to replace the battery is not covered.
Refer to AC Delco (800-223-3526) or www.acdelco.com/ for details.
If the battery develops an acid leak, this is something that AC Delco will consider helping with even if it’s beyond the normal warranty period. A leaking battery often causes consequential damage. The battery cables, battery tray, even air conditioning lines and wiring harnesses may be damaged by the acid dripping on them.
If you’re stuck and have to get the vehicle repaired at an independent repair facility, be sure to get an itemized receipt with a good description of what was damaged and replaced. Ask them to save the old parts and seal them in a plastic bag as evidence for your local dealer to see. You probably wont want the leaky battery back so be sure the repair shop notes the receipt with the AC Delco identification number and/or take a photo of it.
If the battery was the original with the vehicle, call customer assistance. If the battery was an AC Delco replacement, contact them instead.
Remember that if the vehicle is still under the bumper t bumper warranty you should be entitled to courtesy transportation as long as the failure was not caused by collision, neglect or abuse. Unfortunately, AC Delco's warranty does not provide any such benefits
Saturday, July 5, 2008
Noises – and the art of getting them fixed
There are many different sounds that are naturally produced and normal for the average vehicle. After all, several thousand moving parts all rubbing against each other are bound to produce sound – but there is a difference between a sound and a noise. It also stands to reason that the normal sound of a four-wheel drive diesel truck is dramatically different from the normal sound of a Cadillac STS. The more moving parts (such as 4wd) the greater propensity for sound. The more insulation (such as in the STS) the lower the volume will be.
When you’re first introduced to a vehicle, everything is a noise. After a few hundred miles you begin to accept the normal sounds inherent to the vehicle and can pick out a true noise. But addressing the noise(s) with your dealer is where the real challenge lies.
The best way to get a noise fixed is to provide the best possible description of it. Not only “It sounds like zip-pop-buzz…” but more like “when I first start the car in the morning, and back out of my driveway with my foot lightly on the brake, I hear…”. Anything can make a zip-pop-buzz noise, but if you hear it first thing in the morning, on the first brake application, it’s very likely caused by the Anti-Lock Brake system performing a self-diagnostic test. By the way, this is a normal sound.
The point is that describing the noise itself is not always as valuable as describing the conditions under which it occurs. Is the engine cold or at normal operating temperature? Are you accelerating, cruising or slowing down? How fast are you going? Is the air conditioning on or off? Is your foot on the brake? Are the windows open or closed? Then consider external factors. Is it hot or cold outside? Are the roads wet, smooth, rough, paved, gravel, etc? Last consider operating conditions. Is the sound louder with the window open? When did it start occurring? Did you recently have any work performed? Does it always seem to occur on the same road or same stretch of road? Is it most prevalent at any given speed?
There’s also a difference between a squeak a squeal and a whistle; a knock a rattle and a clunk. Describe the sound as well as the conditions under which you hear it as best possible – don’t be vague thinking that they will just listen for everything and anything – that strategy usually doesn’t work.
When you’re first introduced to a vehicle, everything is a noise. After a few hundred miles you begin to accept the normal sounds inherent to the vehicle and can pick out a true noise. But addressing the noise(s) with your dealer is where the real challenge lies.
The best way to get a noise fixed is to provide the best possible description of it. Not only “It sounds like zip-pop-buzz…” but more like “when I first start the car in the morning, and back out of my driveway with my foot lightly on the brake, I hear…”. Anything can make a zip-pop-buzz noise, but if you hear it first thing in the morning, on the first brake application, it’s very likely caused by the Anti-Lock Brake system performing a self-diagnostic test. By the way, this is a normal sound.
The point is that describing the noise itself is not always as valuable as describing the conditions under which it occurs. Is the engine cold or at normal operating temperature? Are you accelerating, cruising or slowing down? How fast are you going? Is the air conditioning on or off? Is your foot on the brake? Are the windows open or closed? Then consider external factors. Is it hot or cold outside? Are the roads wet, smooth, rough, paved, gravel, etc? Last consider operating conditions. Is the sound louder with the window open? When did it start occurring? Did you recently have any work performed? Does it always seem to occur on the same road or same stretch of road? Is it most prevalent at any given speed?
There’s also a difference between a squeak a squeal and a whistle; a knock a rattle and a clunk. Describe the sound as well as the conditions under which you hear it as best possible – don’t be vague thinking that they will just listen for everything and anything – that strategy usually doesn’t work.
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Quality is Priceless
Once again, in my endeavor to keep this blog and corresponding website a positive force in the cyber-world, I have another fantastic service experience to share.
Shortly after purchasing the G6, it developed this intermittent popping/ creaking noise in the front end. It occurred every morning as I backed out of my driveway but would rarely reoccur throughout the day. I had complained about it three times (remember three is the magic lemon-law number) but each time I was told that they could not duplicate it and everything underneath is sound.
Yesterday the noise was worse than ever. The popping occurred well past the driveway and all the way to work – 38 miles away. It sounded as though the left front wheel was loose or the strut was coming apart as I drove. When I got to beautiful Dade City, I immediately drove to the local dealer Pasco Motors and asked if someone was available to test drive my car while the noise was so obvious. To my surprise, the Service Director, John came out of his office and we drove the car around the block.
To make a long story longer, He offered to have someone check it out and I gladly left it. I told them that I needed it to get home at 5:00 or else I’d be stranded. Two hours later, I received a call from Gina, my service advisor, stating that the car was fixed, ready to be picked up, and no charge.
It’s fixed! The noise is gone and I’m a Completely Satisfied Customer. They took my car in completely unannounced, diagnosed and repaired it immediately. By the way, I did not buy the car there, but this kind of treatment makes me wish I had. There’s an old saying that the sales department sells the first car but it’s the service department that keeps the customers coming back (or chases them away). I’ll definitely be shopping Pasco Motors next year for my G8.
Shortly after purchasing the G6, it developed this intermittent popping/ creaking noise in the front end. It occurred every morning as I backed out of my driveway but would rarely reoccur throughout the day. I had complained about it three times (remember three is the magic lemon-law number) but each time I was told that they could not duplicate it and everything underneath is sound.
Yesterday the noise was worse than ever. The popping occurred well past the driveway and all the way to work – 38 miles away. It sounded as though the left front wheel was loose or the strut was coming apart as I drove. When I got to beautiful Dade City, I immediately drove to the local dealer Pasco Motors and asked if someone was available to test drive my car while the noise was so obvious. To my surprise, the Service Director, John came out of his office and we drove the car around the block.
To make a long story longer, He offered to have someone check it out and I gladly left it. I told them that I needed it to get home at 5:00 or else I’d be stranded. Two hours later, I received a call from Gina, my service advisor, stating that the car was fixed, ready to be picked up, and no charge.
It’s fixed! The noise is gone and I’m a Completely Satisfied Customer. They took my car in completely unannounced, diagnosed and repaired it immediately. By the way, I did not buy the car there, but this kind of treatment makes me wish I had. There’s an old saying that the sales department sells the first car but it’s the service department that keeps the customers coming back (or chases them away). I’ll definitely be shopping Pasco Motors next year for my G8.
Monday, June 23, 2008
Proper Fluids for your Vehicle
When it comes to lubricants there are many choices to make and a bunch of potential mistakes to make. Some under-hood chemicals are color coded. Transmission fluid is typically red or pink; coolant is either green or orange, washer solvent is blue. Unfortunately, motor oil, brake fluid and power steering fluid are all a honey-gold color so you have to be careful with what you’re pouring.
Brake fluid is arguably the most critical oil used in the vehicle. It is engineered for a very specific purpose and is hydroscopic. This means that is attracts and disperses moisture. To you, this means that if the bottle’s not sealed properly, it becomes contaminated with moisture from the air.
I do not keep brake fluid in my garage. For one thing, brake fluid is not a consumed liquid. For various reasons, including leakage, your car may consume some engine oil, coolant, etc but the brake system is sealed so that the level in the reservoir diminishes as the brake shoes or pads wear out, but when the shoes or pads are replaced, the fluid goes back to its original level. Unless there is a catastrophic failure, the brake fluid should never leave the system. Second, it gets old and I’d rather be low on good brake fluid than fill the system with bad brake fluid. Third, it is highly corrosive. If you spill brake fluid on any painted surface – including your car, garage floor, kid’s bike – it will cause the finish to blister and peel.
Gone are the days when you could interchange power steering fluid with transmission fluid and other nonsense like that. I once had a customer top off his brake system with power steering fluid. $3000 later, he ended up with a whole new anti-lock brake system complete with fresh fluid.
Sulfuric acid is the fluid that lives in your car’s battery. If you see corrosion or a white flakey, powdery substance below the battery, chances are it’s leaking. Dont touch it. Have it checked and replaced immediately. Last but not least is washer solvent. It’s the cheapest fluid under the hood – usually $1 or so per gallon. Yet people don’t feel that it’s necessary and so they fill the washer tank with water. The temperature under the hood is over 100 degrees so the water gets moldy, clogs the spray nozzles, causes the pump to fail, and you end up with a $90 repair bill that could easily and cheaply have been avoided. Or if you live where there is winter, the water freezes in the bottle overnight, expands and cracks it. This could easily be a $100 mistake. Don’t be penny-wise and dollar-foolish. Consult your owner’s manual and use the proper fluids for the jobs they were intended to do.
Brake fluid is arguably the most critical oil used in the vehicle. It is engineered for a very specific purpose and is hydroscopic. This means that is attracts and disperses moisture. To you, this means that if the bottle’s not sealed properly, it becomes contaminated with moisture from the air.
I do not keep brake fluid in my garage. For one thing, brake fluid is not a consumed liquid. For various reasons, including leakage, your car may consume some engine oil, coolant, etc but the brake system is sealed so that the level in the reservoir diminishes as the brake shoes or pads wear out, but when the shoes or pads are replaced, the fluid goes back to its original level. Unless there is a catastrophic failure, the brake fluid should never leave the system. Second, it gets old and I’d rather be low on good brake fluid than fill the system with bad brake fluid. Third, it is highly corrosive. If you spill brake fluid on any painted surface – including your car, garage floor, kid’s bike – it will cause the finish to blister and peel.
Gone are the days when you could interchange power steering fluid with transmission fluid and other nonsense like that. I once had a customer top off his brake system with power steering fluid. $3000 later, he ended up with a whole new anti-lock brake system complete with fresh fluid.
Sulfuric acid is the fluid that lives in your car’s battery. If you see corrosion or a white flakey, powdery substance below the battery, chances are it’s leaking. Dont touch it. Have it checked and replaced immediately. Last but not least is washer solvent. It’s the cheapest fluid under the hood – usually $1 or so per gallon. Yet people don’t feel that it’s necessary and so they fill the washer tank with water. The temperature under the hood is over 100 degrees so the water gets moldy, clogs the spray nozzles, causes the pump to fail, and you end up with a $90 repair bill that could easily and cheaply have been avoided. Or if you live where there is winter, the water freezes in the bottle overnight, expands and cracks it. This could easily be a $100 mistake. Don’t be penny-wise and dollar-foolish. Consult your owner’s manual and use the proper fluids for the jobs they were intended to do.
Saturday, June 14, 2008
Save Gas with Nitrogen Filled Tires?
I bought a red Pontiac G6 that came with bright green tire valve caps. They were ugly so I put them on my daughter's bike - she thinks they're cool. The green valve caps are used to indicate that a vehicle’s tires are filled with Nitrogen as opposed to compressed air.
Companies that sell and promote Nitrogen systems note several benefits to filling your tires with Nitrogen. Among them are:
1.Nitrogen is a larger molecule than CO2 so there is less seepage or incremental loss of pressure over time;
2.Nitrogen helps keep the tire cooler; and
3.Nitrogen does not expand and over-inflate the tires as compressed air does after driving a few miles.
All of these facts are true and will help extend the life of your tires. After all, race cars, commercial airliners and over-the-road trucks have been using it for years. But, will Nitrogen keep you from getting a flat or help prevent sliding, spinning or skidding? Not likely. By keeping the tire pressure more consistent, it can be argued that ride, handling and fuel economy may be improved, but whether you will actually feel a difference or not is debatable.
Most facilities that offer Nitrogen tire service have equipment that manufactures the gas on site and install it – I have not seen any Nitrogen conversion kits for sale at local auto parts stores. The cost of the service varies, and depending on the age and condition of your tires, may not be cost effective. I've seen pricing from $2 to $10 per tire.
The best time to go Nitro would be when replacing tires or buying a new vehicle. With many new vehicles now featuring tire pressure monitoring systems (TPM), using Nitrogen could reduce false error messages or warning lights coming on by keeping tire pressure more consistent. Tire pressures will still vary some when taking a long trip, but you want to make sure that all four tires have either Nitrogen or CO2 to keep from confusing the system. Since you can’t see what’s in your tires, be sure to use a reputable tire store or service provider or else cool green valve caps may be all you get for your money.
For more information see http://getnitrogen.org/
Companies that sell and promote Nitrogen systems note several benefits to filling your tires with Nitrogen. Among them are:
1.Nitrogen is a larger molecule than CO2 so there is less seepage or incremental loss of pressure over time;
2.Nitrogen helps keep the tire cooler; and
3.Nitrogen does not expand and over-inflate the tires as compressed air does after driving a few miles.
All of these facts are true and will help extend the life of your tires. After all, race cars, commercial airliners and over-the-road trucks have been using it for years. But, will Nitrogen keep you from getting a flat or help prevent sliding, spinning or skidding? Not likely. By keeping the tire pressure more consistent, it can be argued that ride, handling and fuel economy may be improved, but whether you will actually feel a difference or not is debatable.
Most facilities that offer Nitrogen tire service have equipment that manufactures the gas on site and install it – I have not seen any Nitrogen conversion kits for sale at local auto parts stores. The cost of the service varies, and depending on the age and condition of your tires, may not be cost effective. I've seen pricing from $2 to $10 per tire.
The best time to go Nitro would be when replacing tires or buying a new vehicle. With many new vehicles now featuring tire pressure monitoring systems (TPM), using Nitrogen could reduce false error messages or warning lights coming on by keeping tire pressure more consistent. Tire pressures will still vary some when taking a long trip, but you want to make sure that all four tires have either Nitrogen or CO2 to keep from confusing the system. Since you can’t see what’s in your tires, be sure to use a reputable tire store or service provider or else cool green valve caps may be all you get for your money.
For more information see http://getnitrogen.org/
Saturday, June 7, 2008
Why YOU Should Buy American
Before you guiltlessly buy a Toyota, Nissan or Honda that was built in America, please consider these facts:
· The domestic parts content for GM vehicles sold in North America averages 82%, while Toyota's is less than 41%.
· Every day, about one million North Americans earn their living by helping GM build and sell cars in North America.
· The domestic manufacturers employ almost 90 percent of all American autoworkers with about 470,000 direct employees in the U.S.; nearly 10 times as many as the Japanese transplants, who employ 49,000.
· Members of the United Auto Workers staff GM assembly plants. Toyota's plants are non-union.
· Combined, GM, Chrysler and Ford spend more than $16 billion on research and development each year; more than any other industry.
· Profits earned by GM in North America stay here. Toyota's profits go to Japan.
Back in the eighties and early nineties, I was a foreign car advocate. They were less expensive and more dependable. Since then, American vehicles have come a long way and are safer, more comfortable, as dependable and durable as any foreign vehicle. Foreign vehicles, on the other hand, have become more expensive yet have kept the cheap look and feel that they always had. If they were as trouble-free as some like to believe, they wouldn’t have to offer such elaborate warranties.
I worked at several foreign new car dealers and they all have one thing in common – a service and repair department.
You can help keep fellow Americans employed, both assemblers and suppliers, by buying an American vehicle.
· The domestic parts content for GM vehicles sold in North America averages 82%, while Toyota's is less than 41%.
· Every day, about one million North Americans earn their living by helping GM build and sell cars in North America.
· The domestic manufacturers employ almost 90 percent of all American autoworkers with about 470,000 direct employees in the U.S.; nearly 10 times as many as the Japanese transplants, who employ 49,000.
· Members of the United Auto Workers staff GM assembly plants. Toyota's plants are non-union.
· Combined, GM, Chrysler and Ford spend more than $16 billion on research and development each year; more than any other industry.
· Profits earned by GM in North America stay here. Toyota's profits go to Japan.
Back in the eighties and early nineties, I was a foreign car advocate. They were less expensive and more dependable. Since then, American vehicles have come a long way and are safer, more comfortable, as dependable and durable as any foreign vehicle. Foreign vehicles, on the other hand, have become more expensive yet have kept the cheap look and feel that they always had. If they were as trouble-free as some like to believe, they wouldn’t have to offer such elaborate warranties.
I worked at several foreign new car dealers and they all have one thing in common – a service and repair department.
You can help keep fellow Americans employed, both assemblers and suppliers, by buying an American vehicle.
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Vacation Peparation - have a great roadtrip!
With summer on its way, many families will be taking to the road for the fun-filled road trip often known as the family vacation. Even with the obscene price of gasoline, it’s still cheaper to drive five people than to fly. If you too are considering a driving vacation to another state, here are a few items to consider.
Highway driving subjects your vehicle to different conditions than city driving. Although it’s fairly straight and steady, everything on the vehicle is operating at a higher speed. The most immediate items to consider are your tires. I always have my tires rotated and balanced before vacation. An out of balance tire may not be noticeable around town but will cause an annoying vibration at highway speeds.
Here are a few additional items to consider:
• Tire Condition: Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure – including the Spare? If you bought the vehicle used, make sure that there IS a spare – and a jack, etc.
• Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Can you deal with that little shuttering/ squeaking thing they do for hours on end?
• Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Clean windows help reduce eye strain.
• Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? If you can’t find the transmission fluid dipstick, ask for help – don’t assume it’s full.
• Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Ask someone to look behind the vehicle or back into your driveway and check for the taillights reflecting off the garage door.
• Weather Forecasts: What is the weather outlook along your route? I usually use www.weather.com or the AAA site.
• Maps/ Navigation: Do you have up-to-date maps and/ or a current OnStar subscription?
Before leaving town it’s probably best to have the vehicle serviced and tell them that you’re planning a long trip. You may want to remind them to check the air in the spare tire, the condition of the battery terminals, and all the lights.
Remember to bring an umbrella, a flashlight with new batteries, your cell phone charger, jumper cables and a can of fix-a-flat – just in case. A mini first-aid kit, bottled water and chewable Tylenol also come in handy.
Highway driving subjects your vehicle to different conditions than city driving. Although it’s fairly straight and steady, everything on the vehicle is operating at a higher speed. The most immediate items to consider are your tires. I always have my tires rotated and balanced before vacation. An out of balance tire may not be noticeable around town but will cause an annoying vibration at highway speeds.
Here are a few additional items to consider:
• Tire Condition: Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure – including the Spare? If you bought the vehicle used, make sure that there IS a spare – and a jack, etc.
• Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Can you deal with that little shuttering/ squeaking thing they do for hours on end?
• Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Clean windows help reduce eye strain.
• Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? If you can’t find the transmission fluid dipstick, ask for help – don’t assume it’s full.
• Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Ask someone to look behind the vehicle or back into your driveway and check for the taillights reflecting off the garage door.
• Weather Forecasts: What is the weather outlook along your route? I usually use www.weather.com or the AAA site.
• Maps/ Navigation: Do you have up-to-date maps and/ or a current OnStar subscription?
Before leaving town it’s probably best to have the vehicle serviced and tell them that you’re planning a long trip. You may want to remind them to check the air in the spare tire, the condition of the battery terminals, and all the lights.
Remember to bring an umbrella, a flashlight with new batteries, your cell phone charger, jumper cables and a can of fix-a-flat – just in case. A mini first-aid kit, bottled water and chewable Tylenol also come in handy.
Friday, May 23, 2008
How to Calculated Fuel Mileage (MPG)
With today’s absurd gasoline prices, it’s more important than ever to know what kind of fuel mileage your vehicle is getting. I’ve had people tell me that they intend to sell their truck and buy a car to save on gas. Funny thing is that when I ask about what kind of mileage they’re getting on the truck, they never seem to know.
Here’s how you calculate your vehicle’s fuel mielage:
1. Fill your tank at the usual gas station using a medium fill rate – set the handle if you can, or else hold it so that the pump is not running as fast or as slow as it can. Once it stops, don’t try to top off the tank.
2. Get a receipt.
3. Write the pump number and your current mileage on back of the receipt. Cross through the number of gallons of gas purchased (not important), and store it safely in the glove compartment.
4. Drive until you use at least half of the tank.
5. Visit the same gas station.
6. Remove the receipt from the glove box and refill the tank at the same pump number, using the same moderate fill rate.
7. Write down your current mileage.
8. When the tank is full, get another receipt.
9. Subtract one mileage figure from the other to determine how many miles you’ve driven. Then divide that number by the number of gallons of gas you bought on the second receipt.
The result is your miles per gallon rating. Typically after using a half tank of gas, you’ll probably have driven about 150 miles. Depending on your vehicle and driving habits, you may have purchased from 5 to 10 gallons of gas giving you from 15 to 30 mpg.
Do the math before you consider changing vehicles to reduce your gas bill. If you trade a vehicle that’s worth less than you owe, you will have to save many gallons of gas just to break even. If the replacement vehicle is uncomfortable or doesn’t fit your needs, you may not be better off.
Here’s how you calculate your vehicle’s fuel mielage:
1. Fill your tank at the usual gas station using a medium fill rate – set the handle if you can, or else hold it so that the pump is not running as fast or as slow as it can. Once it stops, don’t try to top off the tank.
2. Get a receipt.
3. Write the pump number and your current mileage on back of the receipt. Cross through the number of gallons of gas purchased (not important), and store it safely in the glove compartment.
4. Drive until you use at least half of the tank.
5. Visit the same gas station.
6. Remove the receipt from the glove box and refill the tank at the same pump number, using the same moderate fill rate.
7. Write down your current mileage.
8. When the tank is full, get another receipt.
9. Subtract one mileage figure from the other to determine how many miles you’ve driven. Then divide that number by the number of gallons of gas you bought on the second receipt.
The result is your miles per gallon rating. Typically after using a half tank of gas, you’ll probably have driven about 150 miles. Depending on your vehicle and driving habits, you may have purchased from 5 to 10 gallons of gas giving you from 15 to 30 mpg.
Do the math before you consider changing vehicles to reduce your gas bill. If you trade a vehicle that’s worth less than you owe, you will have to save many gallons of gas just to break even. If the replacement vehicle is uncomfortable or doesn’t fit your needs, you may not be better off.
Sunday, May 18, 2008
Save Money on Gas - Try Regular Unleaded Instead of Premium
There was a news story this week about the feasibility of running a vehicle which specifies using Premium fuel on Regular Unleaded. The vehicle in question was a Mercedes Benz and an import specialist adamantly opposed the idea citing consequences from poor fuel mileage to sever internal engine damage.
If you drive a GM vehicle that recommends using Premium Grade fuel, you definitely want to check your owner’s manual. It may just say something like this:
If your vehicle has the 6.2L V8 engine (VIN Code W), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You can also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration could be slightly reduced, and you might notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you might notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you could damage the engine.
This is a quote from the 2008 Corvette owner’s manual. If any car were to “require” premium fuel, it would certainly be GM’s performance flagship. In all fairness, on the Z06 7.0 liter optional engine, it suggests using regular grade only in an “emergency.”
Years ago, my GM service representative put it to me this way; certain GM models carry performance expectations. It order for those vehicles to achieve those expectations they require Premium fuel to get the very last bit of horsepower to the ground.
So, unless you regularly run flat-out on the Autobahn, check your owner’s manual and see if you can save .20 - .40 per gallon on gasoline.
If you drive a GM vehicle that recommends using Premium Grade fuel, you definitely want to check your owner’s manual. It may just say something like this:
If your vehicle has the 6.2L V8 engine (VIN Code W), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You can also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration could be slightly reduced, and you might notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you might notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you could damage the engine.
This is a quote from the 2008 Corvette owner’s manual. If any car were to “require” premium fuel, it would certainly be GM’s performance flagship. In all fairness, on the Z06 7.0 liter optional engine, it suggests using regular grade only in an “emergency.”
Years ago, my GM service representative put it to me this way; certain GM models carry performance expectations. It order for those vehicles to achieve those expectations they require Premium fuel to get the very last bit of horsepower to the ground.
So, unless you regularly run flat-out on the Autobahn, check your owner’s manual and see if you can save .20 - .40 per gallon on gasoline.
Sunday, May 4, 2008
Engine Oil – There’s more to it than you think.
Most owner’s manuals will recommend that the engine oil be checked at each gas fill-up. If your vehicle has over 100,000 miles you may need to check it more often. Similarly, a fairly new vehicle could run the entire oil change interval without using any oil. Of course leaking oil is another story. I check my engine oil tire pressures and various other fluids and lights once a month.
Owner’s manuals always have an illustration of where the dipstick is and what the indicators on the stick refer to. As a rule of thumb, it’s best to check the oil level on a warm engine after it has been off for a few minutes. Some engines can require up to 20 minutes for all the oil that has been pumped up to the top of the engine to drain all the way back down to the oil pan. Next locate and remove the dipstick, don’t bother trying to read it yet, just wipe it with a clean rag and push it back into the dipstick tube. Now pull it back out and read the oil level. The reason for the duplicity is due to the fact that oil splashes around inside the engine all the time. The initial reading would have measured the splash level not the actual reserve level. It’s usually pretty easy to see the level indicated on the stick and most dipsticks have hash marks, like a bunch of x’s, to show the normal operating range. Others may have notches cut out of the edge to indicate the low and high range of the scale.
Years ago most cars used a 10W/40 motor oil. Today there is 5W/20 and I’ve even seen a 0W/20. What these numbers indicate is the viscosity of the oil. Viscosity is a resistance to flow and it’s measured by timing how long it takes for a specific quantity of oil to flow through a fixed opening (like sand in an hour glass). The thicker it is, the higher the viscosity. Honey may have a viscosity of about 80 where water is probably about 5. The fact that there are two viscosities in 5W/30 oil indicates a multi-grade oil. This means that when the engine is cold, such as in the winter, the oil will act like a 5 weight oil allowing the engine to turn over easily and warm up quickly. When the temperatures increase, the oil is designed to perform like a 30 weight oil. It will sustain the heat and strain, keeping everything lubricated and cool. Do not mix oil grades! It’s OK to mix brands, but always use the same grade engine oil if you have to add.
Most engine oil is petroleum based but there are synthetic oils that have been developed to offer better protection than conventional. If your vehicle requires synthetic oil – use it. If not, then it’s up to you to decide if the additional cost is worth the benefit.
Do not mix synthetic oil with conventional, petroleum based oil.
Engine oil has three responsibilities, lubricating, cleaning and cooling the engine. Engine oil starts out a translucent golden color – not unlike honey. By the time it’s due to be changed it may be dark brown or even black. This does not indicate a problem. The color change is a result of the detergent in the oil removing carbon from inside the engine. Hard working engines, like diesels and small 4 cylinder models tend to accumulate more carbon and dirty the oil quicker.
As in the case of gasoline, there are many different manufacturers of engine oil. Some have more detergents, claim to be more heat tolerant or have better adhesion. Regardless of the type of oil you use, always verify that it has approval from the API or Automotive Petroleum Institute by checking for a starburst symbol on the bottle.
Owner’s manuals always have an illustration of where the dipstick is and what the indicators on the stick refer to. As a rule of thumb, it’s best to check the oil level on a warm engine after it has been off for a few minutes. Some engines can require up to 20 minutes for all the oil that has been pumped up to the top of the engine to drain all the way back down to the oil pan. Next locate and remove the dipstick, don’t bother trying to read it yet, just wipe it with a clean rag and push it back into the dipstick tube. Now pull it back out and read the oil level. The reason for the duplicity is due to the fact that oil splashes around inside the engine all the time. The initial reading would have measured the splash level not the actual reserve level. It’s usually pretty easy to see the level indicated on the stick and most dipsticks have hash marks, like a bunch of x’s, to show the normal operating range. Others may have notches cut out of the edge to indicate the low and high range of the scale.
Years ago most cars used a 10W/40 motor oil. Today there is 5W/20 and I’ve even seen a 0W/20. What these numbers indicate is the viscosity of the oil. Viscosity is a resistance to flow and it’s measured by timing how long it takes for a specific quantity of oil to flow through a fixed opening (like sand in an hour glass). The thicker it is, the higher the viscosity. Honey may have a viscosity of about 80 where water is probably about 5. The fact that there are two viscosities in 5W/30 oil indicates a multi-grade oil. This means that when the engine is cold, such as in the winter, the oil will act like a 5 weight oil allowing the engine to turn over easily and warm up quickly. When the temperatures increase, the oil is designed to perform like a 30 weight oil. It will sustain the heat and strain, keeping everything lubricated and cool. Do not mix oil grades! It’s OK to mix brands, but always use the same grade engine oil if you have to add.
Most engine oil is petroleum based but there are synthetic oils that have been developed to offer better protection than conventional. If your vehicle requires synthetic oil – use it. If not, then it’s up to you to decide if the additional cost is worth the benefit.
Do not mix synthetic oil with conventional, petroleum based oil.
Engine oil has three responsibilities, lubricating, cleaning and cooling the engine. Engine oil starts out a translucent golden color – not unlike honey. By the time it’s due to be changed it may be dark brown or even black. This does not indicate a problem. The color change is a result of the detergent in the oil removing carbon from inside the engine. Hard working engines, like diesels and small 4 cylinder models tend to accumulate more carbon and dirty the oil quicker.
As in the case of gasoline, there are many different manufacturers of engine oil. Some have more detergents, claim to be more heat tolerant or have better adhesion. Regardless of the type of oil you use, always verify that it has approval from the API or Automotive Petroleum Institute by checking for a starburst symbol on the bottle.
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
Air Bags 101 (part 2)
A motor vehicle accident, or collision event as air bag people call it, takes place in approximately three tenths of a second. That’s about as fast as you can blink. Since things happen so quickly, the air bag system must remain on constant alert and actually anticipate a possible collision. To accomplish this, the air bag control module has to monitor more than just its own components.
Conspiracy theorists are aghast at the fact that there is a “black box” in their vehicle that is recording how fast they’re driving and if they have their seat belt on. But, as usual, this is only half true. The module does monitor seat belt latching, vehicle speed, brake application, amount of throttle application and various others items depending on the system. What it doesn’t do is record and store this information constantly. Most systems have the ability to retain five seconds of data. The reason for this was to help engineers build a better air bag system. Since simulated collisions can never precisely duplicate the real world, the crash data has been a valuable tool in recreating collision events that would never have been dreamt of. A secondary purpose is to help defend the company in case of a lawsuit.
It’s not uncommon for accident victims to either complain that the air bags deployed needlessly or didn’t deploy when needed. The truth is that unless you’re an engineer with the crash data in front of you, it is unreasonable to draw such a conclusion. A high speed collision with another object that is also traveling at high speed in the same direction has less chance of being a deployment event than a low speed collision with an unyielding object.
About accidental deployments, I’ve heard of side air bags deploying after someone slammed a door really hard, but never heard of a steering wheel module deploying after someone punched the steering wheel. Since the sensors for that airbag are under the console and/or under the hood, we’ll chalk that one up to Hollywood.
Drive safe - thanks for reading my blog!
Conspiracy theorists are aghast at the fact that there is a “black box” in their vehicle that is recording how fast they’re driving and if they have their seat belt on. But, as usual, this is only half true. The module does monitor seat belt latching, vehicle speed, brake application, amount of throttle application and various others items depending on the system. What it doesn’t do is record and store this information constantly. Most systems have the ability to retain five seconds of data. The reason for this was to help engineers build a better air bag system. Since simulated collisions can never precisely duplicate the real world, the crash data has been a valuable tool in recreating collision events that would never have been dreamt of. A secondary purpose is to help defend the company in case of a lawsuit.
It’s not uncommon for accident victims to either complain that the air bags deployed needlessly or didn’t deploy when needed. The truth is that unless you’re an engineer with the crash data in front of you, it is unreasonable to draw such a conclusion. A high speed collision with another object that is also traveling at high speed in the same direction has less chance of being a deployment event than a low speed collision with an unyielding object.
About accidental deployments, I’ve heard of side air bags deploying after someone slammed a door really hard, but never heard of a steering wheel module deploying after someone punched the steering wheel. Since the sensors for that airbag are under the console and/or under the hood, we’ll chalk that one up to Hollywood.
Drive safe - thanks for reading my blog!
Saturday, April 19, 2008
Air Bags 101 (part 1)
The air bag system is one of the greatest safety features since the seat belt. Also known as a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) or Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR), air bag systems have been improved upon and evolved over the years. It’s a very complicated system based on physics and mathematical equations that the average driver simply does not need to know. As always, I’ll try to offer a simplified overview of the system.
First, there is a computer, or control unit often known as an SIR Module, or DERM (diagnostic energy reserve module). It monitors and controls the system. Next there are the impact sensors. Depending on the system there may be as few as one incorporated into the DERM, or there may be many to detect either frontal or side impact. Then there are the air bags themselves – again, there may be only one mounted in the center of the steering wheel, or many, strategically located throughout the cabin.
To oversimplify, when there is a direct frontal or side collision severe enough to trigger the sensors, a signal is sent to the control module which then deploys the appropriate air bag(s). Air bag systems are designed specific to a vehicle model and are tuned to deploy only when a specific threshold is met. Deployment during a light impact may cause more damage than good. The control module also has an electrical reserve feature that retains enough power to deploy the air bags even if most of the vehicle’s electrical system is destroyed in the collision.
There’s a loud bang, powder fills the vehicle, everyone’s safe – maybe. Remember that the first “S” in SIR and SRS stands for supplemental. The primary restraint in every vehicle is the safety belt which is also relied upon to keep you safely aligned with the secondary restraint – the airbag.
Visit these sites and check back next week for more info on air bag facts and fiction.
http://www.chevrolet.com/safety/during/airbags/
http://www.howstuffworks.com/airbag.htm
First, there is a computer, or control unit often known as an SIR Module, or DERM (diagnostic energy reserve module). It monitors and controls the system. Next there are the impact sensors. Depending on the system there may be as few as one incorporated into the DERM, or there may be many to detect either frontal or side impact. Then there are the air bags themselves – again, there may be only one mounted in the center of the steering wheel, or many, strategically located throughout the cabin.
To oversimplify, when there is a direct frontal or side collision severe enough to trigger the sensors, a signal is sent to the control module which then deploys the appropriate air bag(s). Air bag systems are designed specific to a vehicle model and are tuned to deploy only when a specific threshold is met. Deployment during a light impact may cause more damage than good. The control module also has an electrical reserve feature that retains enough power to deploy the air bags even if most of the vehicle’s electrical system is destroyed in the collision.
There’s a loud bang, powder fills the vehicle, everyone’s safe – maybe. Remember that the first “S” in SIR and SRS stands for supplemental. The primary restraint in every vehicle is the safety belt which is also relied upon to keep you safely aligned with the secondary restraint – the airbag.
Visit these sites and check back next week for more info on air bag facts and fiction.
http://www.chevrolet.com/safety/during/airbags/
http://www.howstuffworks.com/airbag.htm
Saturday, April 12, 2008
What is a Hybrid?
The dictionary describes it as “the offspring of two animals or plants of different breeds, varieties, species, or genera” Ironically, I’ve never heard of a hybrid Impala, Mustang or even a Beetle.
For our purpose a hybrid is any means of transportation that incorporates at least two different sources of propulsion. A Moped is a hybrid. The most popular automotive system is the combination of an internal combustion engine that burns gasoline or diesel fuel, combined with an electric motor.
To start with, a machine that burns fossil fuel is an engine, but if it runs on electricity it’s known as a motor. Your vehicle has one engine but many motors. For example, the starter motor, wiper motor, power window motor, etc run on electricity not fuel.
This leads to the logical conclusion that hybrids require at least two fuel sources. A hybrid vehicle has both a fuel tank (for storing gasoline, diesel or hydrogen) and a collection of batteries. An on-board computer decides which source of power is appropriate for the given driving conditions.
Typically, the electric motor provides primary power during stop-and-go, low speed, city driving. It can also be recruited to “help” the engine while accelerating or hill climbing. The internal combustion engine is used for assisting the electric motor during high power demands and primarily for high speed operation.
The batteries are recharged by systems on the vehicle so that it never has to be plugged-in like a purely electric vehicle. In most cases, the electric motor, when not being used to power the vehicle, doubles as a generator. It is also used to start the engine so the need for a separate starter motor is eliminated.
To learn more about the different hybrid systems, where the various parts are located, and how they work together, check out the links below. How stuff works has been a favorite of mine for years.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/hybrid-car1.htm
http://www.chevrolet.com/hybrid/
http://www.greencar.com/
http://www.hybridcars.com/
For our purpose a hybrid is any means of transportation that incorporates at least two different sources of propulsion. A Moped is a hybrid. The most popular automotive system is the combination of an internal combustion engine that burns gasoline or diesel fuel, combined with an electric motor.
To start with, a machine that burns fossil fuel is an engine, but if it runs on electricity it’s known as a motor. Your vehicle has one engine but many motors. For example, the starter motor, wiper motor, power window motor, etc run on electricity not fuel.
This leads to the logical conclusion that hybrids require at least two fuel sources. A hybrid vehicle has both a fuel tank (for storing gasoline, diesel or hydrogen) and a collection of batteries. An on-board computer decides which source of power is appropriate for the given driving conditions.
Typically, the electric motor provides primary power during stop-and-go, low speed, city driving. It can also be recruited to “help” the engine while accelerating or hill climbing. The internal combustion engine is used for assisting the electric motor during high power demands and primarily for high speed operation.
The batteries are recharged by systems on the vehicle so that it never has to be plugged-in like a purely electric vehicle. In most cases, the electric motor, when not being used to power the vehicle, doubles as a generator. It is also used to start the engine so the need for a separate starter motor is eliminated.
To learn more about the different hybrid systems, where the various parts are located, and how they work together, check out the links below. How stuff works has been a favorite of mine for years.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/hybrid-car1.htm
http://www.chevrolet.com/hybrid/
http://www.greencar.com/
http://www.hybridcars.com/
Saturday, April 5, 2008
Rear Wheel Drive
Most cars utilize one of two common systems to get the engine’s power to the road and propel the vehicle. Each system has its own features, advantages and benefits. Depending on the driver’s expectations, one or the other many provide a value when considering your next purchase.
In a rear wheel drive configuration, power from the engine is transferred to the rear wheels to push the vehicle down the road. The engine is mounted longitudinally, which means that when you open the hood and look at it, the front of the engine will be facing you. The centerline of the engine and transmission share the centerline of the vehicle itself running from front to rear. At the end of the transmission is a driveshaft which provides a power coupling to the differential unit which lives between the two rear wheels. Axles connect the differential gears to rear wheels. For many years this was the exclusive drivetrain of domestic cars and trucks. Strong, smooth and reliable, this system is still preferred for heavy-duty and high performance applications. High performance vehicles benefit from the front wheels having only to steer the vehicle rather than steer and pull it. This puts less stress on the front tires as well. Pick up trucks, full size SUV’s and sports cars like the Corvette still use this system.
Both front wheel drive and rear wheel drive are dependable and effective. Each is best suited for specific applications. What rear wheel drive lacks in efficiency, it makes up for in strength and ride quality. Rear wheel drive provides better balance since the driveline components are spread out along the centerline of the vehicle. Consequently, the components are also very heavy which again detracts from efficiency. There is no practical way to convert a vehicle from one system to the other, so consider your intentions and expectations before purchasing because it's a WYSIWYG situation. (What You See Is What You Get) See the prior post on front wheel drive for more info.
In a rear wheel drive configuration, power from the engine is transferred to the rear wheels to push the vehicle down the road. The engine is mounted longitudinally, which means that when you open the hood and look at it, the front of the engine will be facing you. The centerline of the engine and transmission share the centerline of the vehicle itself running from front to rear. At the end of the transmission is a driveshaft which provides a power coupling to the differential unit which lives between the two rear wheels. Axles connect the differential gears to rear wheels. For many years this was the exclusive drivetrain of domestic cars and trucks. Strong, smooth and reliable, this system is still preferred for heavy-duty and high performance applications. High performance vehicles benefit from the front wheels having only to steer the vehicle rather than steer and pull it. This puts less stress on the front tires as well. Pick up trucks, full size SUV’s and sports cars like the Corvette still use this system.
Both front wheel drive and rear wheel drive are dependable and effective. Each is best suited for specific applications. What rear wheel drive lacks in efficiency, it makes up for in strength and ride quality. Rear wheel drive provides better balance since the driveline components are spread out along the centerline of the vehicle. Consequently, the components are also very heavy which again detracts from efficiency. There is no practical way to convert a vehicle from one system to the other, so consider your intentions and expectations before purchasing because it's a WYSIWYG situation. (What You See Is What You Get) See the prior post on front wheel drive for more info.
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Four Wheel Drive/ All Wheel Drive
While most vehicles are either pushed by rear wheel drive or pulled by front wheel drive, the ideal situation is to have all four wheels propelling the vehicle. This is the rational behind four wheel and all wheel drive. Both systems provide for power displacement to all four wheels. This is usually accomplished by using a large mechanical device known as a transfer case. The transfer case is located just after the transmission and acts like a splitter. Power from the engine is delivered and is then split into two outputs – one sending power to the front wheels and the other to the rear.
Four wheel drive (4WD) is a term and a system commonly related to heavy-duty, off-road applications which include vehicles that pull heavy loads or tackle tough terrain. True four wheel drive has a separate control mechanism for the transfer case; it can be shifted from two to four wheel drive, may have a ‘Low” range and often have a neutral position.
All wheel drive (AWD) is a term and a system most often used with light duty applications where the goal is to improve on-road traction and stability. Examples of these systems are Versatrac and offered in light duty SUV’s. This system is always active. The operator has no control over the system. Some systems use a transfer case while others utilize a modified transaxle and a fluid driven rear drive unit.
Regardless of the system, the performance advantage is undeniable. By having additional pathways of getting the engine’s power to the ground, cars and SUV’s are more stable on the road, while full-size trucks are able to traverse dirt, mud and snow that would swallow a two wheel drive vehicle up to the bumpers.
But, as with anything, there’s a cost. Additional driveline components means increased weight; more moving parts cause additional vibration and noise while providing more things to go wrong. Last, splitting the engine power and sending it in two directions requires power to accomplish. This means less power is available to each of the four wheels, and a proportional decrease in fuel economy as well.
Four wheel drive (4WD) is a term and a system commonly related to heavy-duty, off-road applications which include vehicles that pull heavy loads or tackle tough terrain. True four wheel drive has a separate control mechanism for the transfer case; it can be shifted from two to four wheel drive, may have a ‘Low” range and often have a neutral position.
All wheel drive (AWD) is a term and a system most often used with light duty applications where the goal is to improve on-road traction and stability. Examples of these systems are Versatrac and offered in light duty SUV’s. This system is always active. The operator has no control over the system. Some systems use a transfer case while others utilize a modified transaxle and a fluid driven rear drive unit.
Regardless of the system, the performance advantage is undeniable. By having additional pathways of getting the engine’s power to the ground, cars and SUV’s are more stable on the road, while full-size trucks are able to traverse dirt, mud and snow that would swallow a two wheel drive vehicle up to the bumpers.
But, as with anything, there’s a cost. Additional driveline components means increased weight; more moving parts cause additional vibration and noise while providing more things to go wrong. Last, splitting the engine power and sending it in two directions requires power to accomplish. This means less power is available to each of the four wheels, and a proportional decrease in fuel economy as well.
Sunday, March 9, 2008
Front Wheel Drive
Most cars utilize one of two common systems to get the engine’s power to the road and propel the vehicle. Each system has its own features, advantages and benefits. Depending on the driver’s expectations, one or the other many provide a value when considering your next purchase.
With front wheel drive, power from the engine is sent to the front wheels and they pull the vehicle down the road. The engine is usually mounted transversely, which means when you open the hood and look down, you see the side of the engine while the front is typically facing the passenger side fender. The center line of the engine is perpendicular to the centerline of the vehicle. Instead of a transmission, a front wheel drive vehicle uses a transaxle which incorporates the transmission and differential into one unit. Axles extend from each side of the transaxle and connect to the wheels. A key advantage here is the compactness of the power unit. Energy is lost over distance so the closer things are to each other, the more efficiently power can be transferred. This results in improved fuel economy. Having the powertrain’s weight directly over the drive wheels improves traction in slippery conditions. There are also less moving parts resulting in less things to go wrong.
Front wheel drive units are more compact, efficient and more easily manufactured.
In order for the front wheels to be able to steer the vehicle while pulling it, a special coupling or knuckle has to be used called a constant velocity (or C.V.) joint. The joint is permanently lubricated and sealed in a soft, ribbed boot. Failures usually occur when something tears the boot. Then the grease escapes, while water and dirt attack the joint.
See the posting titled Rear Wheel Drive for more info.
With front wheel drive, power from the engine is sent to the front wheels and they pull the vehicle down the road. The engine is usually mounted transversely, which means when you open the hood and look down, you see the side of the engine while the front is typically facing the passenger side fender. The center line of the engine is perpendicular to the centerline of the vehicle. Instead of a transmission, a front wheel drive vehicle uses a transaxle which incorporates the transmission and differential into one unit. Axles extend from each side of the transaxle and connect to the wheels. A key advantage here is the compactness of the power unit. Energy is lost over distance so the closer things are to each other, the more efficiently power can be transferred. This results in improved fuel economy. Having the powertrain’s weight directly over the drive wheels improves traction in slippery conditions. There are also less moving parts resulting in less things to go wrong.
Front wheel drive units are more compact, efficient and more easily manufactured.
In order for the front wheels to be able to steer the vehicle while pulling it, a special coupling or knuckle has to be used called a constant velocity (or C.V.) joint. The joint is permanently lubricated and sealed in a soft, ribbed boot. Failures usually occur when something tears the boot. Then the grease escapes, while water and dirt attack the joint.
See the posting titled Rear Wheel Drive for more info.
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Stability Enhancement Systems
General Motors has developed various versions of vehicle stability enhancement systems. Most commonly, the systems are marketed as StabiliTrak and Active Handling. A stability enhancement system automatically assists when the vehicle senses loss of control during acceleration, braking, or turning maneuvers. The system responds by comparing how much the driver is turning the steering wheel with how well the vehicle is responding. To improve control the system precisely applies force to the appropriate brake to slow the vehicle and help bring it back to the driver's intended path. Applying the proper brake force at just the right time helps steer the car as you may steer a canoe by dragging an oar in the water.
Like traction control, the system is dependent on several components of the antilock braking system. In addition to gathering information from wheel speed sensors and the powertrain control module, the system monitors steering wheel position and yaw. Yaw is a measurement of the vehicle’s rotation around its center point.
The system is complex, expensive and very effective. In tests, average drivers on a closed track were able to attain better lap times with active handling than without it. More important than lap times, stability enhancement systems help keep vehicles from swerving, spinning and skidding off the road under low traction conditions.
For information on all three systems see http://www.chevrolet.com/safety/before/stabilitrak/
Like traction control, the system is dependent on several components of the antilock braking system. In addition to gathering information from wheel speed sensors and the powertrain control module, the system monitors steering wheel position and yaw. Yaw is a measurement of the vehicle’s rotation around its center point.
The system is complex, expensive and very effective. In tests, average drivers on a closed track were able to attain better lap times with active handling than without it. More important than lap times, stability enhancement systems help keep vehicles from swerving, spinning and skidding off the road under low traction conditions.
For information on all three systems see http://www.chevrolet.com/safety/before/stabilitrak/
Monday, February 18, 2008
Traction Control Systems
Vehicles equipped with Antilock Brakes often have the added feature of traction control. The traction control system operates from the antilock brake control module, utilizing the wheel speed sensor signals and other components. It also works with the powertrain control module and, if equipped, the transmission control module.
The intent of traction control is the exact opposite of antilock braking. Whereas antilock brakes assist in offering controlled braking under low traction conditions, traction control helps the driver experience controlled acceleration in low traction conditions. It is not designed to keep a vehicle from spinning or skidding on a turn – that’s a different system.
While accelerating, if the wheel speed sensors indicate that one wheel is spinning faster than the others, the control module recognizes that traction was lost by that wheel. At this point there are various actions that can be taken. Typically, the control unit will first reduce engine power. If the condition persists it may then command the transmission to shift to a higher gear, or apply brake pressure to the wheel that has lost traction. The result of braking the wheel is that power will then be diverted to the opposite wheel through the compensating gears in the differential.
Tests have proven that under low traction conditions, a traction control system consistently allows for a vehicle to accelerate quicker. This is a valuable safety feature; just ask anyone who has had to merge onto or cross a major road under snowy, icy, or otherwise hazardous conditions. One consequence of traction control is that it works very discretely with little feedback of its operation to the driver. Therefore, to ensure the driver’s awareness of the potentially hazardous driving condition, a “low traction” indicator lamp is usually incorporated into the instrument panel. Remember that this light does not indicate a problem with the system, but instead shows that it’s working.
There are occasions when traction control can work against you. Most notably, when the vehicle is stuck in snow, sand, etc., traction control will prevent the driver from “rocking the car” to get it in motion and out of the situation. To help with this, all systems have an override switch somewhere on the dashboard. They are typically labeled T/C Off or something similar. Unless stuck, always leave the system on (active) while driving. Also, since the antilock brakes and traction control systems work together, a failure in in one system will often affect the other. Address any ABS or T/C system problem immediately – your safety is at stake. Consult your owner’s manual for more specific information, and locations of the indicators and the override switch.
The intent of traction control is the exact opposite of antilock braking. Whereas antilock brakes assist in offering controlled braking under low traction conditions, traction control helps the driver experience controlled acceleration in low traction conditions. It is not designed to keep a vehicle from spinning or skidding on a turn – that’s a different system.
While accelerating, if the wheel speed sensors indicate that one wheel is spinning faster than the others, the control module recognizes that traction was lost by that wheel. At this point there are various actions that can be taken. Typically, the control unit will first reduce engine power. If the condition persists it may then command the transmission to shift to a higher gear, or apply brake pressure to the wheel that has lost traction. The result of braking the wheel is that power will then be diverted to the opposite wheel through the compensating gears in the differential.
Tests have proven that under low traction conditions, a traction control system consistently allows for a vehicle to accelerate quicker. This is a valuable safety feature; just ask anyone who has had to merge onto or cross a major road under snowy, icy, or otherwise hazardous conditions. One consequence of traction control is that it works very discretely with little feedback of its operation to the driver. Therefore, to ensure the driver’s awareness of the potentially hazardous driving condition, a “low traction” indicator lamp is usually incorporated into the instrument panel. Remember that this light does not indicate a problem with the system, but instead shows that it’s working.
There are occasions when traction control can work against you. Most notably, when the vehicle is stuck in snow, sand, etc., traction control will prevent the driver from “rocking the car” to get it in motion and out of the situation. To help with this, all systems have an override switch somewhere on the dashboard. They are typically labeled T/C Off or something similar. Unless stuck, always leave the system on (active) while driving. Also, since the antilock brakes and traction control systems work together, a failure in in one system will often affect the other. Address any ABS or T/C system problem immediately – your safety is at stake. Consult your owner’s manual for more specific information, and locations of the indicators and the override switch.
Saturday, February 9, 2008
Anti-lock Braking Systems
I can still remember my driver’s ed. teacher, Mr. Pollizotto saying “Pump the brakes!” while the 1977 sedan slid sideways down a snow covered street.
The idea behind the action was that once the tires locked, they lost direct contact with the road and the vehicle became uncontrollable. When a tire skids, slides, hydoplanes, etc. the vehicle is no longer firmly connected to our home planet – by pumping the brakes, the wheels would alternately lock and then release. This allowed you to maintain directional control while slowing the car.
Antilock braking systems offer the advantage of keeping the driver in control of the vehicle under moderate to hard braking and while on low traction surfaces. They do not necessarily provide a shorter stopping distance, but instead allow for a controlled stop instead of an uncontrolled skid. As anyone who has driven on a snow or ice covered road (in a car not equipped with ABS) will attest, once the tires start to slide, turning the wheels has little to no effect.
How an ABS system works involves a tremendous amount of electronics and engineering. In layman’s terms, the heart of the system is a controller that regulates how much pressure is applied to each wheel when you step on the brake pedal. There is a speed sensor attached to each wheel that constantly feeds information back to the controller. When braking, if one of those sensors goes to zero, that indicates the tire is skidding (or locked). At that point the controller activates a valve that releases the pressure from that wheel. Once the wheel unlocks and again sends back a speed reading, the controller reapplies the brake pressure. It’s alot like the old “pump the brakes” process except much more efficient and effective. The controller can cycle the pressure on and off ten to fifteen times per second and only on the wheels that are locked so that the wheels with good traction can continue working to stop the vehicle.
If you have ever experienced an ABS assisted stop you likely heard a buzzing/ fluttering noise from under the hood and felt a vibration in the brake pedal. When starting the vehicle, the ABS light may flash for three seconds and you may a buzzing noise from under the hood as it goes through a self-diagnostic test. Both conditions are completely normal. If the light stays on or continuously flashes, have the system checked ASAP. The hydraulic portion of the braking system may be working properly, but you jeopardize getting yourself into a difficult situation that may require ABS, and while the light is on, the system is typically inactivated.
ABS systems require little maintenance; check your owner’s manual for recommended service intervals. What does require diligence is the condition of you tires. Even with ABS, your vehicle can only stop as well as it is connected to the road. If your tires are mismatched, or low on air, the antilock system will not be able to function properly. If you have a small space-saver spare and have occasion to drive with it on the vehicle, the ABS lamp will probably come on since the smaller tire will be spinning much faster than the three normal size tires and therefore confuse the controller. Check the owner’s manual before scheduling a service appointment.
Anti-lock brakes are a valuable safety feature worthy of the additional cost, if any, when purchasing a new vehicle. As an added feature, opting for ABS may include a Traction Control System or TCS. We’ll discuss that system next week.
For more information check out http://www.acdelco.com/service/systems-guide/brake.htm
The idea behind the action was that once the tires locked, they lost direct contact with the road and the vehicle became uncontrollable. When a tire skids, slides, hydoplanes, etc. the vehicle is no longer firmly connected to our home planet – by pumping the brakes, the wheels would alternately lock and then release. This allowed you to maintain directional control while slowing the car.
Antilock braking systems offer the advantage of keeping the driver in control of the vehicle under moderate to hard braking and while on low traction surfaces. They do not necessarily provide a shorter stopping distance, but instead allow for a controlled stop instead of an uncontrolled skid. As anyone who has driven on a snow or ice covered road (in a car not equipped with ABS) will attest, once the tires start to slide, turning the wheels has little to no effect.
How an ABS system works involves a tremendous amount of electronics and engineering. In layman’s terms, the heart of the system is a controller that regulates how much pressure is applied to each wheel when you step on the brake pedal. There is a speed sensor attached to each wheel that constantly feeds information back to the controller. When braking, if one of those sensors goes to zero, that indicates the tire is skidding (or locked). At that point the controller activates a valve that releases the pressure from that wheel. Once the wheel unlocks and again sends back a speed reading, the controller reapplies the brake pressure. It’s alot like the old “pump the brakes” process except much more efficient and effective. The controller can cycle the pressure on and off ten to fifteen times per second and only on the wheels that are locked so that the wheels with good traction can continue working to stop the vehicle.
If you have ever experienced an ABS assisted stop you likely heard a buzzing/ fluttering noise from under the hood and felt a vibration in the brake pedal. When starting the vehicle, the ABS light may flash for three seconds and you may a buzzing noise from under the hood as it goes through a self-diagnostic test. Both conditions are completely normal. If the light stays on or continuously flashes, have the system checked ASAP. The hydraulic portion of the braking system may be working properly, but you jeopardize getting yourself into a difficult situation that may require ABS, and while the light is on, the system is typically inactivated.
ABS systems require little maintenance; check your owner’s manual for recommended service intervals. What does require diligence is the condition of you tires. Even with ABS, your vehicle can only stop as well as it is connected to the road. If your tires are mismatched, or low on air, the antilock system will not be able to function properly. If you have a small space-saver spare and have occasion to drive with it on the vehicle, the ABS lamp will probably come on since the smaller tire will be spinning much faster than the three normal size tires and therefore confuse the controller. Check the owner’s manual before scheduling a service appointment.
Anti-lock brakes are a valuable safety feature worthy of the additional cost, if any, when purchasing a new vehicle. As an added feature, opting for ABS may include a Traction Control System or TCS. We’ll discuss that system next week.
For more information check out http://www.acdelco.com/service/systems-guide/brake.htm
Tuesday, January 22, 2008
EPA Mileage vs Actual Mileage
In 1980, I became the proud recipient of a New York State driver’s license. After learning how to drive, park and make u-turns. I learned how to wait on line to buy gasoline. With the prospect of gasoline prices reaching $4 per gallon, today just as back then, fuel economy is a primary factor when considering a new car purchase.
Very often people complain that their vehicle will not get the miles per gallon numbers that the manufacturer printed on the window sticker. If you’re included in this group, or are considering a new purchase, you need to know how this system really works.
First, the mileage statistics on the window sticker are not calculated by the manufacturer. The tests are actually performed by the Environmental Protection Agency.
Second, in order to keep the tests fair and accurate, each vehicle is tested under controlled conditions.
A vehicle driven on a hot street in Florida will perform differently than if it were on a snow covered road in Alaska. Standardized testing removes these types of variables and while it doesn’t mimic real-world driving, it levels the playing field. Vehicles are tested in a climate controlled building while running on a treadmill-like device at specific speeds for specific times to simulate city and highway driving. While the driving conditions are not realistic, the results of the test are a realistic account of what the vehicle can deliver. More important, it provides an accurate comparison of one vehicle to another.
So, use those EPA figures as a comparison not a performance guaranty. While a car that’s rated to get 28 mpg may not deliver that, it should certainly perform better than a car rated at 22 mpg. Weather conditions, elevation, vehicle loading, traffic conditions and driving styles play the greatest role in influencing gas mileage – all of which are negated by the EPA’s test procedures.
For more information, visit http://www.fueleconomy.gov/ where you can get EPA ratings for vehicles from 1985 to 2008! You can also print a fuel economy guide and read more about the testing procedures.
Very often people complain that their vehicle will not get the miles per gallon numbers that the manufacturer printed on the window sticker. If you’re included in this group, or are considering a new purchase, you need to know how this system really works.
First, the mileage statistics on the window sticker are not calculated by the manufacturer. The tests are actually performed by the Environmental Protection Agency.
Second, in order to keep the tests fair and accurate, each vehicle is tested under controlled conditions.
A vehicle driven on a hot street in Florida will perform differently than if it were on a snow covered road in Alaska. Standardized testing removes these types of variables and while it doesn’t mimic real-world driving, it levels the playing field. Vehicles are tested in a climate controlled building while running on a treadmill-like device at specific speeds for specific times to simulate city and highway driving. While the driving conditions are not realistic, the results of the test are a realistic account of what the vehicle can deliver. More important, it provides an accurate comparison of one vehicle to another.
So, use those EPA figures as a comparison not a performance guaranty. While a car that’s rated to get 28 mpg may not deliver that, it should certainly perform better than a car rated at 22 mpg. Weather conditions, elevation, vehicle loading, traffic conditions and driving styles play the greatest role in influencing gas mileage – all of which are negated by the EPA’s test procedures.
For more information, visit http://www.fueleconomy.gov/ where you can get EPA ratings for vehicles from 1985 to 2008! You can also print a fuel economy guide and read more about the testing procedures.
Sunday, January 13, 2008
Conversion Vans - Beauties or Beasts?
While attending a recent new car show, I noticed one of the “manufacturers” touting their wares was a builder of conversion vans. Except for the Alltel commercials, I don’t see a lot of conversion vans around anymore – and perhaps with good reason.
The “concern” I’ve always had with conversion vans (and by the way, there are other conversion trucks) is the fact that you have two manufacturers involved in building one vehicle, and that can lead to repair and warranty issues.
The vehicle manufacturer Chevrolet, GMC, etc., builds the van and sells it to the conversion company. http://www.gmfleet.com/pages/shopBy/Sport_Cargo_Vans_byBrand.jsp?seo=goo_conversion_vans The van purchased by the conversion company or upfitter, is typically equipped with a dashboard and a driver’s seat, like a delivery truck. The conversion company then installs the fancy seats, seat belts, carpet, interior panels, insulation (maybe), lighting, electronics, rear heat, air conditioning, and additional wiring harnesses and fuse panels to power it all. To the exterior, they apply the paint, graphics, fender flares, wheels, tires, running boards, etc, and in some cases, the roof extension. “High top” vans are not built that way at the factory but have the original roof cut off and a new roof installed. The roof and any added windows can have a dramatic effect on a vehicle’s comfort, ride and handling characteristics. The conversion company customizes the vehicle to meet their specifications. The additional weight and power requirements impose additional strain that may exceed the manufacturer’s specifications.
So, here’s where the problem comes in. The vehicle manufacturer will warranty their product, or portion that they built, for the prescribed warranty term. You may have read in your warranty booklet that the warranty may be voided by evidence of neglect, abuse or modification… but let’s not even go there. The conversion company is responsible for everything else. What else? For how long? These are good questions to ask before buying the vehicle!
At purchase, customers may be told that the vehicle is covered under warranty for 3 years/ 36,000 miles. While this is usually true, they are not advised that there are actually two separate warranties in effect. Most conversion companies will match the manufacturer’s warranty term but do not offer such amenities as Roadside Assistance or Alternate Transportation. Needed replacement parts are mailed from the factory and may cause the customer to be without the vehicle for extended periods. Down time is further accentuated by the fact that conversion companies do not usually print repair manuals to assist technicians in the proper diagnosis and repair of their systems.
GM is not affiliated with any of these companies and General Motors does not warrant any upfitter installed parts. In the event of a conversion related concerns, the best you can do is work with the selling dealership since they have a working relationship with the conversion company.
NOTE: Conversion companies have also been known to customize such vehicles as Suburbans, Yukons, Silverados, and Sierras. The “upgrade” package is typically less dramatic but may include leather seating surfaces, custom dash and other trim (ex. woodgrain) appointments, entertainment systems, wheels/ tires, running boards and graphics.
The moral of the story is, before buying a conversion vehicle; know what you’re getting into. Check out the conversion company (upfitter) online, ask how long the dealer has been working with them, ask about what happens if the vehicle has a problem while you’re out of town, or if you move. Will you have to pay for repairs and then try to get reimbursed by the company? If you buy and extended warranty policy, will they cover conversion related failures? Weigh your options carefully before committing. They look great, but bring along their own baggage.
Thanks for visiting my blog!
The “concern” I’ve always had with conversion vans (and by the way, there are other conversion trucks) is the fact that you have two manufacturers involved in building one vehicle, and that can lead to repair and warranty issues.
The vehicle manufacturer Chevrolet, GMC, etc., builds the van and sells it to the conversion company. http://www.gmfleet.com/pages/shopBy/Sport_Cargo_Vans_byBrand.jsp?seo=goo_conversion_vans The van purchased by the conversion company or upfitter, is typically equipped with a dashboard and a driver’s seat, like a delivery truck. The conversion company then installs the fancy seats, seat belts, carpet, interior panels, insulation (maybe), lighting, electronics, rear heat, air conditioning, and additional wiring harnesses and fuse panels to power it all. To the exterior, they apply the paint, graphics, fender flares, wheels, tires, running boards, etc, and in some cases, the roof extension. “High top” vans are not built that way at the factory but have the original roof cut off and a new roof installed. The roof and any added windows can have a dramatic effect on a vehicle’s comfort, ride and handling characteristics. The conversion company customizes the vehicle to meet their specifications. The additional weight and power requirements impose additional strain that may exceed the manufacturer’s specifications.
So, here’s where the problem comes in. The vehicle manufacturer will warranty their product, or portion that they built, for the prescribed warranty term. You may have read in your warranty booklet that the warranty may be voided by evidence of neglect, abuse or modification… but let’s not even go there. The conversion company is responsible for everything else. What else? For how long? These are good questions to ask before buying the vehicle!
At purchase, customers may be told that the vehicle is covered under warranty for 3 years/ 36,000 miles. While this is usually true, they are not advised that there are actually two separate warranties in effect. Most conversion companies will match the manufacturer’s warranty term but do not offer such amenities as Roadside Assistance or Alternate Transportation. Needed replacement parts are mailed from the factory and may cause the customer to be without the vehicle for extended periods. Down time is further accentuated by the fact that conversion companies do not usually print repair manuals to assist technicians in the proper diagnosis and repair of their systems.
GM is not affiliated with any of these companies and General Motors does not warrant any upfitter installed parts. In the event of a conversion related concerns, the best you can do is work with the selling dealership since they have a working relationship with the conversion company.
NOTE: Conversion companies have also been known to customize such vehicles as Suburbans, Yukons, Silverados, and Sierras. The “upgrade” package is typically less dramatic but may include leather seating surfaces, custom dash and other trim (ex. woodgrain) appointments, entertainment systems, wheels/ tires, running boards and graphics.
The moral of the story is, before buying a conversion vehicle; know what you’re getting into. Check out the conversion company (upfitter) online, ask how long the dealer has been working with them, ask about what happens if the vehicle has a problem while you’re out of town, or if you move. Will you have to pay for repairs and then try to get reimbursed by the company? If you buy and extended warranty policy, will they cover conversion related failures? Weigh your options carefully before committing. They look great, but bring along their own baggage.
Thanks for visiting my blog!
Wednesday, January 2, 2008
OnStar - On the Job
“I’ve locked my keys in the car…” is the typical distress call advertised to promote the advantage of having OnStar service in your vehicle. Although this is likely the most common service provided, there are many others that do not get as much publicity.
First, a quick summary of how it works; OnStar uses a Global Positioning System or GPS in addition to cellular phone service to keep in touch with you and your vehicle. It is also tapped into the vehicle’s electrical system for power, information and to perform some specific actions. The GPS uses satellites to locate your vehicle within just a few feet of its actual position.
One of my favorite features is the vehicle alert that is of particular value to those who lose our vehicles in parking lots. OnStar will beep the horn and flash the lights for several minutes.
Other valuable features include stolen vehicle tracking. By using the GPS signal, OnStar can lead police to your vehicle’s location if it were ever stolen.
There is also an on-board diagnostics feature. If the Service Engine lamp should come on, calling OnStar can offer some reassurance as to whether there is a serious issue of just a loose gas cap triggering the light.
In case of tragedy, OnStar will call the center and notified them if your vehicle’s air bags deploy.
There is also an emergency (panic) button that provides a link to emergency services.
Of course it also offers hands-free cellular phone service which can be used to call for roadside assistance – providing you’re not calling for help with a dead battery.
Which is one of OnStar’s few weaknesses. It relies on the vehicle to provide it with electricity. It also requires a cellular coverage area and a view of the sky to communicate with the satellites. Tunnels and mountains are not OnStar friendly.
All of these features are typically included with your new OnStar equipped vehicle – of course additional features are available for additional fees.
Is it worth the money? Well, at one time seat belts were optional and many believed they weren’t worth the money… Get more info at http://www.gmonstar.com/
Thanks for reading my blog!
First, a quick summary of how it works; OnStar uses a Global Positioning System or GPS in addition to cellular phone service to keep in touch with you and your vehicle. It is also tapped into the vehicle’s electrical system for power, information and to perform some specific actions. The GPS uses satellites to locate your vehicle within just a few feet of its actual position.
One of my favorite features is the vehicle alert that is of particular value to those who lose our vehicles in parking lots. OnStar will beep the horn and flash the lights for several minutes.
Other valuable features include stolen vehicle tracking. By using the GPS signal, OnStar can lead police to your vehicle’s location if it were ever stolen.
There is also an on-board diagnostics feature. If the Service Engine lamp should come on, calling OnStar can offer some reassurance as to whether there is a serious issue of just a loose gas cap triggering the light.
In case of tragedy, OnStar will call the center and notified them if your vehicle’s air bags deploy.
There is also an emergency (panic) button that provides a link to emergency services.
Of course it also offers hands-free cellular phone service which can be used to call for roadside assistance – providing you’re not calling for help with a dead battery.
Which is one of OnStar’s few weaknesses. It relies on the vehicle to provide it with electricity. It also requires a cellular coverage area and a view of the sky to communicate with the satellites. Tunnels and mountains are not OnStar friendly.
All of these features are typically included with your new OnStar equipped vehicle – of course additional features are available for additional fees.
Is it worth the money? Well, at one time seat belts were optional and many believed they weren’t worth the money… Get more info at http://www.gmonstar.com/
Thanks for reading my blog!
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