Defect or Damage

Every new vehicle warranty commits to addressing defects in material or workmanship. This is the manufacturer’s way of promoting quality in their product. They stand behind it, so it must be made well. Elsewhere in your warranty booklet you will find an area titled “what is not covered.” Here, they generally describe the conditions in which the warranty plays no role. If a vehicle is neglected, abused, damaged, or used in a fashion for which it was not intended, the warranty may be compromised or voided. This generally includes racing, extreme off road use, overloading or exceeding the towing capacity.
So if for example, while driving down the road a stone hits your windshield and cracks it - that is not a warrantable condition. If you go to pull into your driveway, and as you’re turning and going over the curb the windshield cracks – that is a warrantable failure. What’s the difference? In the first scenario there was an external influence that neither the manufacturer, nor you, could control – the stone. In the second instance, the vehicle was being used as intended, yet the failure occurred without external influence. Therefore, either a flaw in the glass or improper installation is the most likely cause of the failure.
One more – you decided to boycott the local car wash for unfair labor practices. After two years they unionize, so you reestablish a relationship and have them remove the accumulated road grime, tar, bird droppings and the insect graveyard from your vehicle. Once completed you notice that the paint is stained, blistered, faded and peeling. No big surprise, and no warranty coverage either. This is a case of neglect.
These are relatively cut and dry examples. Most times there are grey areas that become the real issue – such as racing is prohibited yet the Corvette is marketed as a sports car which can attain speeds well in excess of 100 mph. Similarly, four wheel drive trucks are intended for off road use but, if the truck is buried in two feet of mud, whose fault is that?
If you should find yourself in a situation where you are told that a repair cannot be covered under the terms of the warranty, and you are not agreeable to their explanation of why, try contacting your insurance agent. If there was a stone that cracked your windshield, there will be evidence of the impact and your automobile insurance will likely cover it. If not, call customer assistance - even if it's not a factory defect, the manufacturer may assist you as a goodwill gesture.

Battery Warranty Coverage

On GM vehicles, batteries are covered in 3 ways:
1. The original equipment battery is covered under the terms of the new vehicle, bumper to bumper warranty.
2. If that battery is replaced under warranty, the replacement battery is covered for the remainder of the new vehicle warranty; or 12months/12,000 miles – whichever is greater.
3. When you purchase an AC Delco battery, the AC Delco Warranty Program covers it. AC Delco offers 18 or 24 month free replacement coverage followed by a pro-ration period – diagnosis and labor to replace the battery is not covered.

Refer to AC Delco (800-223-3526) or www.acdelco.com/ for details.

If the battery develops an acid leak, this is something that AC Delco will consider helping with even if it’s beyond the normal warranty period. A leaking battery often causes consequential damage. The battery cables, battery tray, even air conditioning lines and wiring harnesses may be damaged by the acid dripping on them.

If you’re stuck and have to get the vehicle repaired at an independent repair facility, be sure to get an itemized receipt with a good description of what was damaged and replaced. Ask them to save the old parts and seal them in a plastic bag as evidence for your local dealer to see. You probably wont want the leaky battery back so be sure the repair shop notes the receipt with the AC Delco identification number and/or take a photo of it.

If the battery was the original with the vehicle, call customer assistance. If the battery was an AC Delco replacement, contact them instead.

Remember that if the vehicle is still under the bumper t bumper warranty you should be entitled to courtesy transportation as long as the failure was not caused by collision, neglect or abuse. Unfortunately, AC Delco's warranty does not provide any such benefits

Noises – and the art of getting them fixed

There are many different sounds that are naturally produced and normal for the average vehicle. After all, several thousand moving parts all rubbing against each other are bound to produce sound – but there is a difference between a sound and a noise. It also stands to reason that the normal sound of a four-wheel drive diesel truck is dramatically different from the normal sound of a Cadillac STS. The more moving parts (such as 4wd) the greater propensity for sound. The more insulation (such as in the STS) the lower the volume will be.
When you’re first introduced to a vehicle, everything is a noise. After a few hundred miles you begin to accept the normal sounds inherent to the vehicle and can pick out a true noise. But addressing the noise(s) with your dealer is where the real challenge lies.
The best way to get a noise fixed is to provide the best possible description of it. Not only “It sounds like zip-pop-buzz…” but more like “when I first start the car in the morning, and back out of my driveway with my foot lightly on the brake, I hear…”. Anything can make a zip-pop-buzz noise, but if you hear it first thing in the morning, on the first brake application, it’s very likely caused by the Anti-Lock Brake system performing a self-diagnostic test. By the way, this is a normal sound.
The point is that describing the noise itself is not always as valuable as describing the conditions under which it occurs. Is the engine cold or at normal operating temperature? Are you accelerating, cruising or slowing down? How fast are you going? Is the air conditioning on or off? Is your foot on the brake? Are the windows open or closed? Then consider external factors. Is it hot or cold outside? Are the roads wet, smooth, rough, paved, gravel, etc? Last consider operating conditions. Is the sound louder with the window open? When did it start occurring? Did you recently have any work performed? Does it always seem to occur on the same road or same stretch of road? Is it most prevalent at any given speed?
There’s also a difference between a squeak a squeal and a whistle; a knock a rattle and a clunk. Describe the sound as well as the conditions under which you hear it as best possible – don’t be vague thinking that they will just listen for everything and anything – that strategy usually doesn’t work.