MyGMConnection

Facts About Headlights

2011-07-20T16:03:00.002-04:00

In the beginning, cars and trucks used incandescent or “sealed beam” headlights. Similar in design and function to your typical screw-in light bulb, they used a tungsten steel wire – or filament - sealed in a glass lens. When electricity passed through the filament it became so hot that it produced a steady and reliable source of light. As with home lighting, sealed beams had limitations. The brightness was limited and the light produced was not clean, natural-looking but a dingy tainted or yellow color. They also weren’t very efficient. The energy used to light the bulb actually produced 95% heat and only 5% light.

Next came the Halogen headlight. Around 1978, a brighter longer-lasting headlight hit the market. Although still an incandescent bulb, it was filled with an inert gas known as halogen which allowed it to burn brighter and last longer. This is still the most common style headlight in the industry. Early halogen headlights were sized and shaped like the old sealed beams which were either round or rectangular. This was convenient if you wanted to upgrade your lighting to the new halogens, but eventually the bulb and the headlight capsule or lens became two separate items. This allowed manufacturers to design the smooth streamlined headlights that are common today. The halogen bulb merely snaps into the back of the unit to provide the light source and is actually self-contained.

The latest technology regarding headlights deals with eliminating the tungsten steel filament that has been the common component of lighting since Thomas Edison. Such is the case with vapor lamps. Mercury and sodium vapor lamps are used in streetlights and at sports stadiums. But for automotive applications Xenon gas is the way to go. Xenon gas headlights produce a brilliant bluish light three times brighter than a halogen bulb, while using 65% less energy. The automotive industry has dubbed these style headlights “High Intensity Discharge” or HID headlights. While very bright, they use a special controller or ballast to create an arc between two points which excites the gas and creates light. To accomplish this, the ballast steps up the voltage from 12volts that the vehicle runs on, to 20,000 volts to ignite the xenon in the bulb.

Unfortunately, all of this high-tech magic adds to the price of having HID lighting. HID bulbs and ballasts can run hundreds of dollars to replace while a halogen bulb is twenty dollars or so. And don’t be fooled by imitations – HID produces a blue light but not every blue light is an HID.

How and When to Buy Tires

2010-07-09T21:32:00.003-04:00

Aside from obvious failures such as a blow-out or an irreparable flat , how do you know when it’s time to replace the tires on your vehicle?
The answer is simpler than you may think thanks to an industry standard known as “wear bars.” Deep within the tread of every tire is a small ridge molded into the tire that indicates when that tire has reached its useful limit. The “bars” are located in several places around each tire and are aligned to create a line across the tire tread. An old tire trick involves using a penny. Hold the penny with Lincoln’s head facing down and toward you. Insert it into a worn area of the tread. If you can see all of the president’s head, the tires are worn out. Tires are officially worn out when the tread depth reaches 1/16th of an inch.
It is always best to replace all four tires at once. It ensures that the vehicle will ride and handle as it was designed for optimum safety and comfort - this is especially important if your vehicle is all-wheel drive. Traction control and computerized all wheel drive systems rely on all of the tires being exactly the same size and rotate at exactly the same speed. On a typical front or rear wheel drive vehicle you should at least replace your tires in pairs.
If you buy a new pair of tires the next question is where to have them installed. Old school logic had always professed installing the better tires on the front. Logically, the front tires handle the weight of the engine, steer, and provide most of the braking. This made good sense until engineers at Michelin proved that logical is not always practical. At their proving grounds Michelin demonstrated how having the better tires on the rear of a vehicle – either front or rear wheel drive – reduced hydroplaning and consequential oversteer caused by the rear tires losing traction. Hydroplaning is a condition that occurs when a tire cannot channel away the water beneath it and therefore loses contact with road by literally riding on a film of water.
Another thing to keep in mind is that all tires have a break-in period. Tires perform best after the first 500 miles of service. This is due to the use of various chemicals necessary during the manufacturing process that wear away after 500 miles or so.
The tire industry is extremely competitive so be sure to shop around before buying. Keep in mind that every tire manufacturer has several models of tires to choose from and then several variations of each model so be sure your comparing apples to apples.

Spring Cleaning

2010-05-28T13:09:00.001-04:00

It’s time to take off the snow tires and wash the salt out of the fenders. Even if you don’t have to deal with such things, there are maintenance items that everyone should practice to get their car ready for summer.
If you live in an area of the country that gets cold and salt is used to keep the roads clear of ice, it is vitally important to ensure that no remnants of salt remain on your vehicle. Salt is highly corrosive and although manufacturers are using more man-made and galvanized parts, salt will cause any bare metal parts of your vehicle to rust away. Wash the car off from above and below. Many automated car washes offer an undercarriage wash which greatly helps to remove residual salt that may be trapped in nooks and crannies that would otherwise harbor the corrosive.
Protect the paint by applying a fresh coat of good quality wax. Wax helps to preserve the paint finish by providing a protective layer that keeps bugs, grime and dirt from sticking to the paint and also offers protection from the uv rays of the sun.
Get the oil changed, tires rotated and be sure to have the service agent check the coolant. Coolant is not just antifreeze – it also raises the boiling point of water it’s mixed with to keep your engine from overheating. Also, check the wiper blades since April showers also tend to bring work to the body shops.
Last, if your air conditioner has taken on a musty or moldy smell, ask you service agent about disinfecting the a/c system. There are several products available that work very well at killing the mold that often grows in the car’s ventilation unit.
As usual, make sure all the lights are working, the fluids are full and there’s air in the spare.

Cold Weather Tire Pressure

2010-01-14T21:36:00.000-05:00

Any one with a working knowledge of automobile maintenance will know that tire pressure should always be checked while the tire is cold – meaning not driven on for at least two hours. But cold is a relative term and winter temperatures can quickly go from cold to too cold.

The air in a tire expands and contracts with temperature. Since the inner volume of the tire stays relatively constant, the air pressure increases with higher temperature and decreases with lower temperature. Filling your tires with Nitrogen is one way to help minimize these fluctuations. Nitrogen expands and contracts far less than air.

With winter upon us, you may notice that your tires appear low on air, or the Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) may be flashing a warning that your tires are low on air. For each ten degrees of temperature change the pressure in an air-filled tire will change by one pound. So if you last checked your tires in the fall when it was in the 70’s and now it’s in the 20’s, your tires have each lost about five pounds of air pressure.

Considering the hazards winter affords; snow, ice, wind and rain, you should pay more attention to your tires in the winter than during any other time of year. So check the driver’s door jamb or the owner’s manual for the recommended tire pressure; make sure the tires are cold; and check your tires using a quality tire pressure gage (dial or digital are most accurate). If your tire pressure light is on, fill all the tires to the proper pressure and check your owner’s manual for how to reset the light. Chances are it will reset itself after driving a few miles. Last, don’t forget your spare.

The New EPA Method

2009-11-15T15:35:00.002-05:00

For some 20 years I have heard people complain that their [ fill in the blank ] has Never been able to get the mileage the manufacturer and salesman promised. Well, of course not. If you’ve read my trade tip #26 on www.mygmconnection.com you’d know that neither the manufacturer nor the dealer came up with those mileage figures – it was the Federal Government! Imagine that, the government was less than accurate in a statement to the public.

In 2007 things began to change. The EPA modified the test procedures for determining the average city and highway mileage figures. The test vehicles are still run under controlled conditions to allow for valid comparisons, but those conditions have been modified. They now include aggressive acceleration, high speed freeway driving, use of the vehicle’s air conditioning system and even a 20 degree cold start simulation.

Simulating more realistic driving conditions had the expected effect – the EPA mileage ratings went down - typically from 2 to 10 miles per gallon. Hardest hit appears to have been the long overrated hybrids.

There is no mention of which makes or models that neither faired best or worst nor was there an average adjustment mentioned in the research I performed. For more information check out the data and a video at http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/ratings2008.shtml .

Here’s something else for you to consider… a Boeing 737 burns approximately 1,000 to 2,000 gallons of aviation fuel per hour. That’s about 25 gallons (more than the average automotive gas tank capacity) per MINUTE.

Who monitors the exhaust emissions and efficiency of airplanes?

The Chinese Tire Tariff

2009-10-21T22:43:00.001-04:00

On September 11th President Obama announced a new tire tariff imposed upon Chinese tires. Many tire companies, tire distributors and tire dealers are not happy with the decision to impose an additional 35% tariff to the existing 4%. Plus, there is a quota of 21 million tires - compare that with last year's Chinese tire imports of over 46 million tires, and it's easy to see why this is controversial legislation.

Industry giant Toyo is reported to be moving its entire manufacturing structure from China to Japan. Other manufacturers like Kuhmo, Cooper and Hancook announced increased prices to dealers which in the end trickles down to consumers. According to Tire Business a 16 inch tire that had a cost of $37.78 with the 4% tariff will now cost the importer $50.50 with a 39% tariff.
Another problem is tire supplies. Finding a matching tire will become a problem if the tire manufacturer is either not carrying the tire you need or the manufacturer is taking step to restructure its manufacturing process. Hancook tires are sometimes standard equipment on new American cars and light trucks.

Industry specialists are voicing concerns of the effect shortages and higher prices will have on the already challenged retail industry fearing pending layoffs.
Others call the legislation discrimination since only Chinese imports are involved.
So, whose idea was this? The United Steelworker’s Union. They contested that Chinese tire imports were destroying the US tire industry causing layoffs of its members.
But the Tire Industry Association disagrees with the union. Instead they believe that low-end Chinese tires do not directly compete with the high-end American tires. Another concern is that US manufacturers will not be able to fill the supply gap left by reduced imports. TIA also believes the tariffs will cost more jobs than they create.

Only time will tell, but, when hearing of Chinese tires, I cant help but be reminded of the poisoned pet food, unsafe children’s toys and the infamous Chinese drywall. Maybe what comes around really does go around.

Cash for Clunker Results

2009-09-21T22:26:00.002-04:00

How successful the program was and who the winners are, depends on who you ask. According to our government, Asian manufacturers made out with Toyota and Honda being top sellers. But, using the same data, Edmunds.com., an online automotive industry resource, calculated the biggest winner to be Ford.

It seems the Department of Traffic categorized vehicles by powertrain configuration rather than traditional make and model classifications. Using their system, a Camry is a Camry, but a Ford Escape is a two wheel drive SUV, a four wheel drive SUV, and/or a hybrid. If you add them all together there were more Escapes sold than any other single model. I’m also proud to see other American-made models in Edmunds’ top 10 list including the Silverado. Four of the top ten sellers were SUV’s – not surprising since the vast majority of vehicles traded in were SUV’s. The F150 pick-up was on the top ten list of vehicles traded-in as well as the top ten purchased. Some speculate that the DOT’s results were deliberately skewed to look more impressive, but regardless, the numbers are what they are. I think Honda and Toyota deserve the good sales numbers since other reports indicate they spent the most money on incentives during the clunker program.

What’s interesting to me is the fact that although some 690,000 vehicles were sold under this program, I’ve only met one person that took advantage of it. Most of my friends and family don’t know anyone able to buy a new vehicle regardless of how much money government motors was willing to give them on a trade. Another interesting fact is the estimated value of the vehicles traded in. According to data I’ve found, the actual value of the average trade-in was around $1,400. So consumers made out great by getting $3500 or $4500 for their $1400 clunker, but who are these people that in this economy can go from a $1400 junker to a $400 per month car payment?

Whether it saves the planet by lowering emissions, saves lives by getting more air bags and anti-lock braking systems on the road, or if higher average gas mileage lowers demand for gasoline thereby lowering the price, remains to be seen. It certainly injected a bunch of money into the economy. The program cost $3 Billion – that’s around $150 out of each American adult’s pocket. But wait, there’s more. The clunker program is not over. 690,000 sales should mean 690,000 clunkers that now have to be disposed of. According to the program guidelines, clunkers cannot be resold. The clunker’s engine must be made inoperable prior to leaving the dealership’s property on its way to a program approved salvage yard. The salvage yard is not allowed to resell the engine but, it appears, may resell every other part of the vehicle. Sounds like a homerun for the salvage industry as well. In the end, the salvage yard will notify the DOT of the vehicle crushing or shredding by filing a sort of clunker death certificate.

So what’s next? How about Cash for Fitness? Trade in a box of Twinkies on a $4500 voucher toward a health club membership. Personally, I could use some cash for rent, cable, car insurance, etc…

Cash for Clunkers

2009-07-06T23:05:00.005-04:00

Here’s the scoop on the new Cash for Clunkers (otherwise known as CARS) program. Although signed by Obama it's still in the process of being implemented, but here are some basics.

Only registered dealers can participate in the program.
For the consumer, there is no enrollment, voucher or sign up sheet. All the work is done by the participating dealer. You make the best deal you can and if the vehicle you trade and the vehicle you buy meet the program qualifications, the price of the new vehicle is reduced by $3500 to $4500 and the dealer applies for a credit from the government. The amount of credit depends on the type of vehicle you buy and the difference between the new vehicle and your trade.

Basic qualifications for your trade in include:
It must be less than 25 years old
It must have had an EPA fuel economy rating of 18 mpg or less
It must be in drivable condition
It must be insured and registered to YOU for 1 year prior to trading it

Choose a NEW vehicle with an MSRP of $45,000 or less then buy or lease it for 5 years or longer. For more information see www.cars.gov

Sound good? Now for the obamanation of what could have been a good program…
Part of the deal requires your trade to be DESTROYED. Therefore, it no longer has a trade in value more than scrap iron.
So, someone trades in a vehicle maybe 10 years old, gets $3500 to $4500 for it, which may be what it would be worth without the program. Then, instead of becoming someone else’s kid’s first car, the vehicle helps contaminate our already overflowing landfills with toxic waste and hazardous materials.

Worst of all, the program applies to foreign vehicles as well as American made automobiles so there’s no patriotism in this program either. We’re not doing the country a favor, we’re no doing the planet a favor.
I think this program's a clunker and if the government wants to spur the economy and help the US car industry, they should impose stiffer tariffs on the imports to level the playing field.
In this tough economy, you would be better off trading up from a heavy older vehicle to a newer more fuel efficient American made vehicle. Citizens have been doing it for 100 years without the feds getting involved. That way profits from the sale go to the neighborhood dealer and your old car becomes someone elses new car. It's kind of like recycling without the blue bag.
Where's Al Gore when we need him?

Take Advantage of Pontiac's Demise

2009-06-21T16:41:00.003-04:00

As a 2008 Pontiac owner I too have received the dire letter from Ms.Docherty advising of the elimination of the Pontiac brand. There are several important points to know about how GM deals with customers loyal to a brand that is being discontinued.
Having worked for GM during the termination of the Oldsmobile brand, I can tell you from experience that GM understands the value of keeping loyal customers.
Let's face it, there are only two options to consider: Keep your Pontiac or trade it in.
Whichever option you choose, there are things to know about each that can make your choice easier to live with.
If you decide to keep your Pontiac, keep in mind that you will be able to have it serviced at any Buick/ GMC dealer as stated in the letter. What you may not know is that GM has a policy for cross-line warranty repairs. Under extreme conditions, GM will authorize repairs to be performed regardless of the dealer’s franchise. What that means to you is that you and your Pontiac will likely be welcome at ANY GM dealer including Chevrolet and Cadillac.If you decide to trade your Pontiac on another GM vehicle, call Pontiac customer assistance at 800-762-2737. Explain that you are a current Pontiac owner, repeat GM buyer and would like to remain loyal to GM. Pontiac retail values dropped significantly since the big announcement and they know it. Ask them for assistance in making up the difference.
There is a tool GM uses called an Owner Loyalty certificate which is like cash to any GM dealership. It’s GM’s way of making up for things like this in an effort to keep you from straying to the dark side. The proper way to use an owner loyalty certificate is described in the Tips of the Trade area of MyGMConnection.com

Ms Goodwrench

2008-10-13T22:08:00.002-04:00

Women sometimes feel defensive, apprehensive and even intimidated by having to bring their car or truck in for repairs. Purchasing a new or used vehicle can be twice as bad. Here are a few strategies to try that will help you gain the respect you deserve.
First, as with choosing any retailer or service provider from plumbers to doctors, ask friends and relatives for referrals and then build a rapport. If I went to my doctor with an earache and he told me I need my spleen removed, I’d believe him. If you bring your car to your mechanic with a dead battery and they tell you it needs an expensive electronic brake module that’s causing the battery to drain overnight, you have to believe him. Of course trust has to be earned, so choosing a reputable repair shop or dealership is just the beginning. You then need to patronize them for not only repairs, but for oil changes, tire rotations, and other common maintenance items. After all, you probably first visited your doctor with cold or flu symptoms or aches and pains – not because you suspected internal bleeding, a brain tumor or a ruptured spleen.
You will gain confidence in them with every oil change, and they will value and respect you as a steady customer. Most businesses realize that they spend lots of money advertising to gain new customers. Once you have a customer, it makes good sense to try to keep her, or him, rather than lose them and then spend more money to replace them.
To avoid feeling defensive dealing with the male dominated automotive field, do some homework. Knowledge is power and the internet is a valuable educational tool. Links listed on this website can help you.
If you’re looking to buy a car, there are several sites that will help you choose which models will suite your needs and let you compare features side by side. Sites like Kelly Blue Book www.kbb.com and Edmunds www.edmunds.com offer pricing, ratings and even independent reviews of all types of new and used cars and trucks.
If your facing a repair issue, a google search of the symptom, make and model can provide results that will help give you an idea of what your facing. Now, when you get to the repair shop you’ll be better able to describe the condition – what the noise sounds like, when the vibration is felt, etc. Also, you’ll have an idea of what’s involved in repairing the problem. If it’s a common concern, which many concerns are, you’ll be a more educated consumer and feel more confident about bringing the car in, more assured that the repairs will be effective and that you’re paying a reasonable price. In some cases common concerns may be covered under warranty or recall coverage – call the manufacturer for clarification.
For added peace of mind, ask for a written estimate before any repairs are performed and ask for the old parts back. These are steps that warranty companies take to help ensure that they are not exploited. You should do the same.

Ms Goodwrench

2008-10-06T21:06:00.001-04:00

Women sometimes feel defensive, apprehensive and even intimidated by having to bring their car or truck in for repairs. Purchasing a new or used vehicle can be twice as bad. Here are a few strategies to try that will help you gain the respect you deserve.
First, as with choosing any retailer or service provider from plumbers to doctors, ask friends and relatives for referrals and then build a rapport. If I went to my doctor with an earache and he told me I need my spleen removed, I’d believe him. If you bring your car to your mechanic with a dead battery and they tell you it needs an expensive electronic brake module that’s causing the battery to drain overnight, you have to believe him. Of course trust has to be earned, so choosing a reputable repair shop or dealership is just the beginning. You then need to patronize them for not only repairs, but for oil changes, tire rotations, and other common maintenance items. After all, you probably first visited your doctor with cold or flu symptoms or aches and pains – not because you suspected internal bleeding, a brain tumor or a ruptured spleen.
You will gain confidence in them with every oil change, and they will value and respect you as a steady customer. Most businesses realize that they spend lots of money advertising to gain new customers. Once you have a customer, it makes good sense to try to keep her, or him, rather than lose them and then spend more money to replace them.

To avoid feeling defensive dealing with the male dominated automotive field, do some homework. Knowledge is power and the internet is a valuable educational tool. Links listed on this website can help you.
If you’re looking to buy a car, there are several sites that will help you choose which models will suite your needs and let you compare features side by side. Sites like Kelly Blue Book www.kbb.com and Edmunds www.edmunds.com offer pricing, ratings and even independent reviews of all types of new and used cars and trucks.
If your facing a repair issue, a google search of the symptom, make and model can provide results that will help give you an idea of what your facing. Now, when you get to the repair shop you’ll be better able to describe the condition – what the noise sounds like, when the vibration is felt, etc. Also, you’ll have an idea of what’s involved in repairing the problem. If it’s a common concern, which many concerns are, you’ll be a more educated consumer and feel more confident about bringing the car in, more assured that the repairs will be effective and that you’re paying a reasonable price. In some cases common concerns may be covered under warranty or recall coverage – call the manufacturer for clarification.
For added peace of mind, ask for a written estimate before any repairs are performed and ask for the old parts back. These are steps that warranty companies take to help ensure that they are not exploited. You should do the same.

Defect or Damage

2008-07-20T20:08:00.001-04:00

Every new vehicle warranty commits to addressing defects in material or workmanship. This is the manufacturer’s way of promoting quality in their product. They stand behind it, so it must be made well. Elsewhere in your warranty booklet you will find an area titled “what is not covered.” Here, they generally describe the conditions in which the warranty plays no role. If a vehicle is neglected, abused, damaged, or used in a fashion for which it was not intended, the warranty may be compromised or voided. This generally includes racing, extreme off road use, overloading or exceeding the towing capacity.
So if for example, while driving down the road a stone hits your windshield and cracks it - that is not a warrantable condition. If you go to pull into your driveway, and as you’re turning and going over the curb the windshield cracks – that is a warrantable failure. What’s the difference? In the first scenario there was an external influence that neither the manufacturer, nor you, could control – the stone. In the second instance, the vehicle was being used as intended, yet the failure occurred without external influence. Therefore, either a flaw in the glass or improper installation is the most likely cause of the failure.
One more – you decided to boycott the local car wash for unfair labor practices. After two years they unionize, so you reestablish a relationship and have them remove the accumulated road grime, tar, bird droppings and the insect graveyard from your vehicle. Once completed you notice that the paint is stained, blistered, faded and peeling. No big surprise, and no warranty coverage either. This is a case of neglect.
These are relatively cut and dry examples. Most times there are grey areas that become the real issue – such as racing is prohibited yet the Corvette is marketed as a sports car which can attain speeds well in excess of 100 mph. Similarly, four wheel drive trucks are intended for off road use but, if the truck is buried in two feet of mud, whose fault is that?
If you should find yourself in a situation where you are told that a repair cannot be covered under the terms of the warranty, and you are not agreeable to their explanation of why, try contacting your insurance agent. If there was a stone that cracked your windshield, there will be evidence of the impact and your automobile insurance will likely cover it. If not, call customer assistance - even if it's not a factory defect, the manufacturer may assist you as a goodwill gesture.

Battery Warranty Coverage

2008-07-17T07:26:00.002-04:00

On GM vehicles, batteries are covered in 3 ways:
1. The original equipment battery is covered under the terms of the new vehicle, bumper to bumper warranty.
2. If that battery is replaced under warranty, the replacement battery is covered for the remainder of the new vehicle warranty; or 12months/12,000 miles – whichever is greater.
3. When you purchase an AC Delco battery, the AC Delco Warranty Program covers it. AC Delco offers 18 or 24 month free replacement coverage followed by a pro-ration period – diagnosis and labor to replace the battery is not covered.

Refer to AC Delco (800-223-3526) or www.acdelco.com/ for details.

If the battery develops an acid leak, this is something that AC Delco will consider helping with even if it’s beyond the normal warranty period. A leaking battery often causes consequential damage. The battery cables, battery tray, even air conditioning lines and wiring harnesses may be damaged by the acid dripping on them.

If you’re stuck and have to get the vehicle repaired at an independent repair facility, be sure to get an itemized receipt with a good description of what was damaged and replaced. Ask them to save the old parts and seal them in a plastic bag as evidence for your local dealer to see. You probably wont want the leaky battery back so be sure the repair shop notes the receipt with the AC Delco identification number and/or take a photo of it.

If the battery was the original with the vehicle, call customer assistance. If the battery was an AC Delco replacement, contact them instead.

Remember that if the vehicle is still under the bumper t bumper warranty you should be entitled to courtesy transportation as long as the failure was not caused by collision, neglect or abuse. Unfortunately, AC Delco's warranty does not provide any such benefits

Noises – and the art of getting them fixed

2008-07-05T23:53:00.001-04:00

There are many different sounds that are naturally produced and normal for the average vehicle. After all, several thousand moving parts all rubbing against each other are bound to produce sound – but there is a difference between a sound and a noise. It also stands to reason that the normal sound of a four-wheel drive diesel truck is dramatically different from the normal sound of a Cadillac STS. The more moving parts (such as 4wd) the greater propensity for sound. The more insulation (such as in the STS) the lower the volume will be.
When you’re first introduced to a vehicle, everything is a noise. After a few hundred miles you begin to accept the normal sounds inherent to the vehicle and can pick out a true noise. But addressing the noise(s) with your dealer is where the real challenge lies.
The best way to get a noise fixed is to provide the best possible description of it. Not only “It sounds like zip-pop-buzz…” but more like “when I first start the car in the morning, and back out of my driveway with my foot lightly on the brake, I hear…”. Anything can make a zip-pop-buzz noise, but if you hear it first thing in the morning, on the first brake application, it’s very likely caused by the Anti-Lock Brake system performing a self-diagnostic test. By the way, this is a normal sound.
The point is that describing the noise itself is not always as valuable as describing the conditions under which it occurs. Is the engine cold or at normal operating temperature? Are you accelerating, cruising or slowing down? How fast are you going? Is the air conditioning on or off? Is your foot on the brake? Are the windows open or closed? Then consider external factors. Is it hot or cold outside? Are the roads wet, smooth, rough, paved, gravel, etc? Last consider operating conditions. Is the sound louder with the window open? When did it start occurring? Did you recently have any work performed? Does it always seem to occur on the same road or same stretch of road? Is it most prevalent at any given speed?
There’s also a difference between a squeak a squeal and a whistle; a knock a rattle and a clunk. Describe the sound as well as the conditions under which you hear it as best possible – don’t be vague thinking that they will just listen for everything and anything – that strategy usually doesn’t work.

Quality is Priceless

2008-06-28T10:14:00.001-04:00

Once again, in my endeavor to keep this blog and corresponding website a positive force in the cyber-world, I have another fantastic service experience to share.
Shortly after purchasing the G6, it developed this intermittent popping/ creaking noise in the front end. It occurred every morning as I backed out of my driveway but would rarely reoccur throughout the day. I had complained about it three times (remember three is the magic lemon-law number) but each time I was told that they could not duplicate it and everything underneath is sound.
Yesterday the noise was worse than ever. The popping occurred well past the driveway and all the way to work – 38 miles away. It sounded as though the left front wheel was loose or the strut was coming apart as I drove. When I got to beautiful Dade City, I immediately drove to the local dealer Pasco Motors and asked if someone was available to test drive my car while the noise was so obvious. To my surprise, the Service Director, John came out of his office and we drove the car around the block.
To make a long story longer, He offered to have someone check it out and I gladly left it. I told them that I needed it to get home at 5:00 or else I’d be stranded. Two hours later, I received a call from Gina, my service advisor, stating that the car was fixed, ready to be picked up, and no charge.
It’s fixed! The noise is gone and I’m a Completely Satisfied Customer. They took my car in completely unannounced, diagnosed and repaired it immediately. By the way, I did not buy the car there, but this kind of treatment makes me wish I had. There’s an old saying that the sales department sells the first car but it’s the service department that keeps the customers coming back (or chases them away). I’ll definitely be shopping Pasco Motors next year for my G8.

Proper Fluids for your Vehicle

2008-06-23T22:13:00.002-04:00

When it comes to lubricants there are many choices to make and a bunch of potential mistakes to make. Some under-hood chemicals are color coded. Transmission fluid is typically red or pink; coolant is either green or orange, washer solvent is blue. Unfortunately, motor oil, brake fluid and power steering fluid are all a honey-gold color so you have to be careful with what you’re pouring.
Brake fluid is arguably the most critical oil used in the vehicle. It is engineered for a very specific purpose and is hydroscopic. This means that is attracts and disperses moisture. To you, this means that if the bottle’s not sealed properly, it becomes contaminated with moisture from the air.
I do not keep brake fluid in my garage. For one thing, brake fluid is not a consumed liquid. For various reasons, including leakage, your car may consume some engine oil, coolant, etc but the brake system is sealed so that the level in the reservoir diminishes as the brake shoes or pads wear out, but when the shoes or pads are replaced, the fluid goes back to its original level. Unless there is a catastrophic failure, the brake fluid should never leave the system. Second, it gets old and I’d rather be low on good brake fluid than fill the system with bad brake fluid. Third, it is highly corrosive. If you spill brake fluid on any painted surface – including your car, garage floor, kid’s bike – it will cause the finish to blister and peel.
Gone are the days when you could interchange power steering fluid with transmission fluid and other nonsense like that. I once had a customer top off his brake system with power steering fluid. $3000 later, he ended up with a whole new anti-lock brake system complete with fresh fluid.
Sulfuric acid is the fluid that lives in your car’s battery. If you see corrosion or a white flakey, powdery substance below the battery, chances are it’s leaking. Dont touch it. Have it checked and replaced immediately. Last but not least is washer solvent. It’s the cheapest fluid under the hood – usually $1 or so per gallon. Yet people don’t feel that it’s necessary and so they fill the washer tank with water. The temperature under the hood is over 100 degrees so the water gets moldy, clogs the spray nozzles, causes the pump to fail, and you end up with a $90 repair bill that could easily and cheaply have been avoided. Or if you live where there is winter, the water freezes in the bottle overnight, expands and cracks it. This could easily be a $100 mistake. Don’t be penny-wise and dollar-foolish. Consult your owner’s manual and use the proper fluids for the jobs they were intended to do.

Save Gas with Nitrogen Filled Tires?

2008-06-14T16:55:00.003-04:00

I bought a red Pontiac G6 that came with bright green tire valve caps. They were ugly so I put them on my daughter's bike - she thinks they're cool. The green valve caps are used to indicate that a vehicle’s tires are filled with Nitrogen as opposed to compressed air.
Companies that sell and promote Nitrogen systems note several benefits to filling your tires with Nitrogen. Among them are:
1.Nitrogen is a larger molecule than CO2 so there is less seepage or incremental loss of pressure over time;
2.Nitrogen helps keep the tire cooler; and
3.Nitrogen does not expand and over-inflate the tires as compressed air does after driving a few miles.
All of these facts are true and will help extend the life of your tires. After all, race cars, commercial airliners and over-the-road trucks have been using it for years. But, will Nitrogen keep you from getting a flat or help prevent sliding, spinning or skidding? Not likely. By keeping the tire pressure more consistent, it can be argued that ride, handling and fuel economy may be improved, but whether you will actually feel a difference or not is debatable.
Most facilities that offer Nitrogen tire service have equipment that manufactures the gas on site and install it – I have not seen any Nitrogen conversion kits for sale at local auto parts stores. The cost of the service varies, and depending on the age and condition of your tires, may not be cost effective. I've seen pricing from $2 to $10 per tire.
The best time to go Nitro would be when replacing tires or buying a new vehicle. With many new vehicles now featuring tire pressure monitoring systems (TPM), using Nitrogen could reduce false error messages or warning lights coming on by keeping tire pressure more consistent. Tire pressures will still vary some when taking a long trip, but you want to make sure that all four tires have either Nitrogen or CO2 to keep from confusing the system. Since you can’t see what’s in your tires, be sure to use a reputable tire store or service provider or else cool green valve caps may be all you get for your money.
For more information see http://getnitrogen.org/

Why YOU Should Buy American

2008-06-07T20:07:00.002-04:00

Before you guiltlessly buy a Toyota, Nissan or Honda that was built in America, please consider these facts:

· The domestic parts content for GM vehicles sold in North America averages 82%, while Toyota's is less than 41%.
· Every day, about one million North Americans earn their living by helping GM build and sell cars in North America.
· The domestic manufacturers employ almost 90 percent of all American autoworkers with about 470,000 direct employees in the U.S.; nearly 10 times as many as the Japanese transplants, who employ 49,000.
· Members of the United Auto Workers staff GM assembly plants. Toyota's plants are non-union.
· Combined, GM, Chrysler and Ford spend more than $16 billion on research and development each year; more than any other industry.
· Profits earned by GM in North America stay here. Toyota's profits go to Japan.

Back in the eighties and early nineties, I was a foreign car advocate. They were less expensive and more dependable. Since then, American vehicles have come a long way and are safer, more comfortable, as dependable and durable as any foreign vehicle. Foreign vehicles, on the other hand, have become more expensive yet have kept the cheap look and feel that they always had. If they were as trouble-free as some like to believe, they wouldn’t have to offer such elaborate warranties.

I worked at several foreign new car dealers and they all have one thing in common – a service and repair department.
You can help keep fellow Americans employed, both assemblers and suppliers, by buying an American vehicle.

Vacation Peparation - have a great roadtrip!

2008-06-01T10:42:00.003-04:00

With summer on its way, many families will be taking to the road for the fun-filled road trip often known as the family vacation. Even with the obscene price of gasoline, it’s still cheaper to drive five people than to fly. If you too are considering a driving vacation to another state, here are a few items to consider.
Highway driving subjects your vehicle to different conditions than city driving. Although it’s fairly straight and steady, everything on the vehicle is operating at a higher speed. The most immediate items to consider are your tires. I always have my tires rotated and balanced before vacation. An out of balance tire may not be noticeable around town but will cause an annoying vibration at highway speeds.

Here are a few additional items to consider:
• Tire Condition: Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure – including the Spare? If you bought the vehicle used, make sure that there IS a spare – and a jack, etc.
• Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Can you deal with that little shuttering/ squeaking thing they do for hours on end?
• Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Clean windows help reduce eye strain.
• Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? If you can’t find the transmission fluid dipstick, ask for help – don’t assume it’s full.
• Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Ask someone to look behind the vehicle or back into your driveway and check for the taillights reflecting off the garage door.
• Weather Forecasts: What is the weather outlook along your route? I usually use www.weather.com or the AAA site.
• Maps/ Navigation: Do you have up-to-date maps and/ or a current OnStar subscription?

Before leaving town it’s probably best to have the vehicle serviced and tell them that you’re planning a long trip. You may want to remind them to check the air in the spare tire, the condition of the battery terminals, and all the lights.
Remember to bring an umbrella, a flashlight with new batteries, your cell phone charger, jumper cables and a can of fix-a-flat – just in case. A mini first-aid kit, bottled water and chewable Tylenol also come in handy.

How to Calculated Fuel Mileage (MPG)

2008-05-23T23:18:00.002-04:00

With today’s absurd gasoline prices, it’s more important than ever to know what kind of fuel mileage your vehicle is getting. I’ve had people tell me that they intend to sell their truck and buy a car to save on gas. Funny thing is that when I ask about what kind of mileage they’re getting on the truck, they never seem to know.
Here’s how you calculate your vehicle’s fuel mielage:
1. Fill your tank at the usual gas station using a medium fill rate – set the handle if you can, or else hold it so that the pump is not running as fast or as slow as it can. Once it stops, don’t try to top off the tank.
2. Get a receipt.
3. Write the pump number and your current mileage on back of the receipt. Cross through the number of gallons of gas purchased (not important), and store it safely in the glove compartment.
4. Drive until you use at least half of the tank.
5. Visit the same gas station.
6. Remove the receipt from the glove box and refill the tank at the same pump number, using the same moderate fill rate.
7. Write down your current mileage.
8. When the tank is full, get another receipt.
9. Subtract one mileage figure from the other to determine how many miles you’ve driven. Then divide that number by the number of gallons of gas you bought on the second receipt.

The result is your miles per gallon rating. Typically after using a half tank of gas, you’ll probably have driven about 150 miles. Depending on your vehicle and driving habits, you may have purchased from 5 to 10 gallons of gas giving you from 15 to 30 mpg.
Do the math before you consider changing vehicles to reduce your gas bill. If you trade a vehicle that’s worth less than you owe, you will have to save many gallons of gas just to break even. If the replacement vehicle is uncomfortable or doesn’t fit your needs, you may not be better off.

Save Money on Gas - Try Regular Unleaded Instead of Premium

2008-05-18T22:18:00.003-04:00

There was a news story this week about the feasibility of running a vehicle which specifies using Premium fuel on Regular Unleaded. The vehicle in question was a Mercedes Benz and an import specialist adamantly opposed the idea citing consequences from poor fuel mileage to sever internal engine damage.
If you drive a GM vehicle that recommends using Premium Grade fuel, you definitely want to check your owner’s manual. It may just say something like this:
If your vehicle has the 6.2L V8 engine (VIN Code W), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You can also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration could be slightly reduced, and you might notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you might notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you could damage the engine.
This is a quote from the 2008 Corvette owner’s manual. If any car were to “require” premium fuel, it would certainly be GM’s performance flagship. In all fairness, on the Z06 7.0 liter optional engine, it suggests using regular grade only in an “emergency.”
Years ago, my GM service representative put it to me this way; certain GM models carry performance expectations. It order for those vehicles to achieve those expectations they require Premium fuel to get the very last bit of horsepower to the ground.
So, unless you regularly run flat-out on the Autobahn, check your owner’s manual and see if you can save .20 - .40 per gallon on gasoline.

Engine Oil – There’s more to it than you think.

2008-05-04T23:10:00.002-04:00

Most owner’s manuals will recommend that the engine oil be checked at each gas fill-up. If your vehicle has over 100,000 miles you may need to check it more often. Similarly, a fairly new vehicle could run the entire oil change interval without using any oil. Of course leaking oil is another story. I check my engine oil tire pressures and various other fluids and lights once a month.
Owner’s manuals always have an illustration of where the dipstick is and what the indicators on the stick refer to. As a rule of thumb, it’s best to check the oil level on a warm engine after it has been off for a few minutes. Some engines can require up to 20 minutes for all the oil that has been pumped up to the top of the engine to drain all the way back down to the oil pan. Next locate and remove the dipstick, don’t bother trying to read it yet, just wipe it with a clean rag and push it back into the dipstick tube. Now pull it back out and read the oil level. The reason for the duplicity is due to the fact that oil splashes around inside the engine all the time. The initial reading would have measured the splash level not the actual reserve level. It’s usually pretty easy to see the level indicated on the stick and most dipsticks have hash marks, like a bunch of x’s, to show the normal operating range. Others may have notches cut out of the edge to indicate the low and high range of the scale.
Years ago most cars used a 10W/40 motor oil. Today there is 5W/20 and I’ve even seen a 0W/20. What these numbers indicate is the viscosity of the oil. Viscosity is a resistance to flow and it’s measured by timing how long it takes for a specific quantity of oil to flow through a fixed opening (like sand in an hour glass). The thicker it is, the higher the viscosity. Honey may have a viscosity of about 80 where water is probably about 5. The fact that there are two viscosities in 5W/30 oil indicates a multi-grade oil. This means that when the engine is cold, such as in the winter, the oil will act like a 5 weight oil allowing the engine to turn over easily and warm up quickly. When the temperatures increase, the oil is designed to perform like a 30 weight oil. It will sustain the heat and strain, keeping everything lubricated and cool. Do not mix oil grades! It’s OK to mix brands, but always use the same grade engine oil if you have to add.
Most engine oil is petroleum based but there are synthetic oils that have been developed to offer better protection than conventional. If your vehicle requires synthetic oil – use it. If not, then it’s up to you to decide if the additional cost is worth the benefit.
Do not mix synthetic oil with conventional, petroleum based oil.
Engine oil has three responsibilities, lubricating, cleaning and cooling the engine. Engine oil starts out a translucent golden color – not unlike honey. By the time it’s due to be changed it may be dark brown or even black. This does not indicate a problem. The color change is a result of the detergent in the oil removing carbon from inside the engine. Hard working engines, like diesels and small 4 cylinder models tend to accumulate more carbon and dirty the oil quicker.
As in the case of gasoline, there are many different manufacturers of engine oil. Some have more detergents, claim to be more heat tolerant or have better adhesion. Regardless of the type of oil you use, always verify that it has approval from the API or Automotive Petroleum Institute by checking for a starburst symbol on the bottle.

Air Bags 101 (part 2)

2008-04-29T23:27:00.002-04:00

A motor vehicle accident, or collision event as air bag people call it, takes place in approximately three tenths of a second. That’s about as fast as you can blink. Since things happen so quickly, the air bag system must remain on constant alert and actually anticipate a possible collision. To accomplish this, the air bag control module has to monitor more than just its own components.
Conspiracy theorists are aghast at the fact that there is a “black box” in their vehicle that is recording how fast they’re driving and if they have their seat belt on. But, as usual, this is only half true. The module does monitor seat belt latching, vehicle speed, brake application, amount of throttle application and various others items depending on the system. What it doesn’t do is record and store this information constantly. Most systems have the ability to retain five seconds of data. The reason for this was to help engineers build a better air bag system. Since simulated collisions can never precisely duplicate the real world, the crash data has been a valuable tool in recreating collision events that would never have been dreamt of. A secondary purpose is to help defend the company in case of a lawsuit.
It’s not uncommon for accident victims to either complain that the air bags deployed needlessly or didn’t deploy when needed. The truth is that unless you’re an engineer with the crash data in front of you, it is unreasonable to draw such a conclusion. A high speed collision with another object that is also traveling at high speed in the same direction has less chance of being a deployment event than a low speed collision with an unyielding object.
About accidental deployments, I’ve heard of side air bags deploying after someone slammed a door really hard, but never heard of a steering wheel module deploying after someone punched the steering wheel. Since the sensors for that airbag are under the console and/or under the hood, we’ll chalk that one up to Hollywood.
Drive safe - thanks for reading my blog!

Air Bags 101 (part 1)

2008-04-19T23:13:00.002-04:00

The air bag system is one of the greatest safety features since the seat belt. Also known as a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) or Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR), air bag systems have been improved upon and evolved over the years. It’s a very complicated system based on physics and mathematical equations that the average driver simply does not need to know. As always, I’ll try to offer a simplified overview of the system.

First, there is a computer, or control unit often known as an SIR Module, or DERM (diagnostic energy reserve module). It monitors and controls the system. Next there are the impact sensors. Depending on the system there may be as few as one incorporated into the DERM, or there may be many to detect either frontal or side impact. Then there are the air bags themselves – again, there may be only one mounted in the center of the steering wheel, or many, strategically located throughout the cabin.

To oversimplify, when there is a direct frontal or side collision severe enough to trigger the sensors, a signal is sent to the control module which then deploys the appropriate air bag(s). Air bag systems are designed specific to a vehicle model and are tuned to deploy only when a specific threshold is met. Deployment during a light impact may cause more damage than good. The control module also has an electrical reserve feature that retains enough power to deploy the air bags even if most of the vehicle’s electrical system is destroyed in the collision.

There’s a loud bang, powder fills the vehicle, everyone’s safe – maybe. Remember that the first “S” in SIR and SRS stands for supplemental. The primary restraint in every vehicle is the safety belt which is also relied upon to keep you safely aligned with the secondary restraint – the airbag.
Visit these sites and check back next week for more info on air bag facts and fiction.
http://www.chevrolet.com/safety/during/airbags/
http://www.howstuffworks.com/airbag.htm

What is a Hybrid?

2008-04-12T10:22:00.002-04:00

The dictionary describes it as “the offspring of two animals or plants of different breeds, varieties, species, or genera” Ironically, I’ve never heard of a hybrid Impala, Mustang or even a Beetle.
For our purpose a hybrid is any means of transportation that incorporates at least two different sources of propulsion. A Moped is a hybrid. The most popular automotive system is the combination of an internal combustion engine that burns gasoline or diesel fuel, combined with an electric motor.
To start with, a machine that burns fossil fuel is an engine, but if it runs on electricity it’s known as a motor. Your vehicle has one engine but many motors. For example, the starter motor, wiper motor, power window motor, etc run on electricity not fuel.
This leads to the logical conclusion that hybrids require at least two fuel sources. A hybrid vehicle has both a fuel tank (for storing gasoline, diesel or hydrogen) and a collection of batteries. An on-board computer decides which source of power is appropriate for the given driving conditions.
Typically, the electric motor provides primary power during stop-and-go, low speed, city driving. It can also be recruited to “help” the engine while accelerating or hill climbing. The internal combustion engine is used for assisting the electric motor during high power demands and primarily for high speed operation.
The batteries are recharged by systems on the vehicle so that it never has to be plugged-in like a purely electric vehicle. In most cases, the electric motor, when not being used to power the vehicle, doubles as a generator. It is also used to start the engine so the need for a separate starter motor is eliminated.
To learn more about the different hybrid systems, where the various parts are located, and how they work together, check out the links below. How stuff works has been a favorite of mine for years.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/hybrid-car1.htm
http://www.chevrolet.com/hybrid/
http://www.greencar.com/
http://www.hybridcars.com/

Rear Wheel Drive

2008-04-05T09:26:00.006-04:00

Most cars utilize one of two common systems to get the engine’s power to the road and propel the vehicle. Each system has its own features, advantages and benefits. Depending on the driver’s expectations, one or the other many provide a value when considering your next purchase.

In a rear wheel drive configuration, power from the engine is transferred to the rear wheels to push the vehicle down the road. The engine is mounted longitudinally, which means that when you open the hood and look at it, the front of the engine will be facing you. The centerline of the engine and transmission share the centerline of the vehicle itself running from front to rear. At the end of the transmission is a driveshaft which provides a power coupling to the differential unit which lives between the two rear wheels. Axles connect the differential gears to rear wheels. For many years this was the exclusive drivetrain of domestic cars and trucks. Strong, smooth and reliable, this system is still preferred for heavy-duty and high performance applications. High performance vehicles benefit from the front wheels having only to steer the vehicle rather than steer and pull it. This puts less stress on the front tires as well. Pick up trucks, full size SUV’s and sports cars like the Corvette still use this system.

Both front wheel drive and rear wheel drive are dependable and effective. Each is best suited for specific applications. What rear wheel drive lacks in efficiency, it makes up for in strength and ride quality. Rear wheel drive provides better balance since the driveline components are spread out along the centerline of the vehicle. Consequently, the components are also very heavy which again detracts from efficiency. There is no practical way to convert a vehicle from one system to the other, so consider your intentions and expectations before purchasing because it's a WYSIWYG situation. (What You See Is What You Get) See the prior post on front wheel drive for more info.

Four Wheel Drive/ All Wheel Drive

2008-03-19T21:59:00.001-04:00

While most vehicles are either pushed by rear wheel drive or pulled by front wheel drive, the ideal situation is to have all four wheels propelling the vehicle. This is the rational behind four wheel and all wheel drive. Both systems provide for power displacement to all four wheels. This is usually accomplished by using a large mechanical device known as a transfer case. The transfer case is located just after the transmission and acts like a splitter. Power from the engine is delivered and is then split into two outputs – one sending power to the front wheels and the other to the rear.
Four wheel drive (4WD) is a term and a system commonly related to heavy-duty, off-road applications which include vehicles that pull heavy loads or tackle tough terrain. True four wheel drive has a separate control mechanism for the transfer case; it can be shifted from two to four wheel drive, may have a ‘Low” range and often have a neutral position.
All wheel drive (AWD) is a term and a system most often used with light duty applications where the goal is to improve on-road traction and stability. Examples of these systems are Versatrac and offered in light duty SUV’s. This system is always active. The operator has no control over the system. Some systems use a transfer case while others utilize a modified transaxle and a fluid driven rear drive unit.
Regardless of the system, the performance advantage is undeniable. By having additional pathways of getting the engine’s power to the ground, cars and SUV’s are more stable on the road, while full-size trucks are able to traverse dirt, mud and snow that would swallow a two wheel drive vehicle up to the bumpers.
But, as with anything, there’s a cost. Additional driveline components means increased weight; more moving parts cause additional vibration and noise while providing more things to go wrong. Last, splitting the engine power and sending it in two directions requires power to accomplish. This means less power is available to each of the four wheels, and a proportional decrease in fuel economy as well.

Front Wheel Drive

2008-03-09T10:25:00.003-04:00

Most cars utilize one of two common systems to get the engine’s power to the road and propel the vehicle. Each system has its own features, advantages and benefits. Depending on the driver’s expectations, one or the other many provide a value when considering your next purchase.

With front wheel drive, power from the engine is sent to the front wheels and they pull the vehicle down the road. The engine is usually mounted transversely, which means when you open the hood and look down, you see the side of the engine while the front is typically facing the passenger side fender. The center line of the engine is perpendicular to the centerline of the vehicle. Instead of a transmission, a front wheel drive vehicle uses a transaxle which incorporates the transmission and differential into one unit. Axles extend from each side of the transaxle and connect to the wheels. A key advantage here is the compactness of the power unit. Energy is lost over distance so the closer things are to each other, the more efficiently power can be transferred. This results in improved fuel economy. Having the powertrain’s weight directly over the drive wheels improves traction in slippery conditions. There are also less moving parts resulting in less things to go wrong.

Front wheel drive units are more compact, efficient and more easily manufactured.

In order for the front wheels to be able to steer the vehicle while pulling it, a special coupling or knuckle has to be used called a constant velocity (or C.V.) joint. The joint is permanently lubricated and sealed in a soft, ribbed boot. Failures usually occur when something tears the boot. Then the grease escapes, while water and dirt attack the joint.
See the posting titled Rear Wheel Drive for more info.

Stability Enhancement Systems

2008-02-27T13:51:00.001-05:00

General Motors has developed various versions of vehicle stability enhancement systems. Most commonly, the systems are marketed as StabiliTrak and Active Handling. A stability enhancement system automatically assists when the vehicle senses loss of control during acceleration, braking, or turning maneuvers. The system responds by comparing how much the driver is turning the steering wheel with how well the vehicle is responding. To improve control the system precisely applies force to the appropriate brake to slow the vehicle and help bring it back to the driver's intended path. Applying the proper brake force at just the right time helps steer the car as you may steer a canoe by dragging an oar in the water.
Like traction control, the system is dependent on several components of the antilock braking system. In addition to gathering information from wheel speed sensors and the powertrain control module, the system monitors steering wheel position and yaw. Yaw is a measurement of the vehicle’s rotation around its center point.
The system is complex, expensive and very effective. In tests, average drivers on a closed track were able to attain better lap times with active handling than without it. More important than lap times, stability enhancement systems help keep vehicles from swerving, spinning and skidding off the road under low traction conditions.
For information on all three systems see http://www.chevrolet.com/safety/before/stabilitrak/

Traction Control Systems

2008-02-18T14:43:00.002-05:00

Vehicles equipped with Antilock Brakes often have the added feature of traction control. The traction control system operates from the antilock brake control module, utilizing the wheel speed sensor signals and other components. It also works with the powertrain control module and, if equipped, the transmission control module.
The intent of traction control is the exact opposite of antilock braking. Whereas antilock brakes assist in offering controlled braking under low traction conditions, traction control helps the driver experience controlled acceleration in low traction conditions. It is not designed to keep a vehicle from spinning or skidding on a turn – that’s a different system.
While accelerating, if the wheel speed sensors indicate that one wheel is spinning faster than the others, the control module recognizes that traction was lost by that wheel. At this point there are various actions that can be taken. Typically, the control unit will first reduce engine power. If the condition persists it may then command the transmission to shift to a higher gear, or apply brake pressure to the wheel that has lost traction. The result of braking the wheel is that power will then be diverted to the opposite wheel through the compensating gears in the differential.
Tests have proven that under low traction conditions, a traction control system consistently allows for a vehicle to accelerate quicker. This is a valuable safety feature; just ask anyone who has had to merge onto or cross a major road under snowy, icy, or otherwise hazardous conditions. One consequence of traction control is that it works very discretely with little feedback of its operation to the driver. Therefore, to ensure the driver’s awareness of the potentially hazardous driving condition, a “low traction” indicator lamp is usually incorporated into the instrument panel. Remember that this light does not indicate a problem with the system, but instead shows that it’s working.
There are occasions when traction control can work against you. Most notably, when the vehicle is stuck in snow, sand, etc., traction control will prevent the driver from “rocking the car” to get it in motion and out of the situation. To help with this, all systems have an override switch somewhere on the dashboard. They are typically labeled T/C Off or something similar. Unless stuck, always leave the system on (active) while driving. Also, since the antilock brakes and traction control systems work together, a failure in in one system will often affect the other. Address any ABS or T/C system problem immediately – your safety is at stake. Consult your owner’s manual for more specific information, and locations of the indicators and the override switch.

Anti-lock Braking Systems

2008-02-09T15:50:00.000-05:00

I can still remember my driver’s ed. teacher, Mr. Pollizotto saying “Pump the brakes!” while the 1977 sedan slid sideways down a snow covered street.
The idea behind the action was that once the tires locked, they lost direct contact with the road and the vehicle became uncontrollable. When a tire skids, slides, hydoplanes, etc. the vehicle is no longer firmly connected to our home planet – by pumping the brakes, the wheels would alternately lock and then release. This allowed you to maintain directional control while slowing the car.

Antilock braking systems offer the advantage of keeping the driver in control of the vehicle under moderate to hard braking and while on low traction surfaces. They do not necessarily provide a shorter stopping distance, but instead allow for a controlled stop instead of an uncontrolled skid. As anyone who has driven on a snow or ice covered road (in a car not equipped with ABS) will attest, once the tires start to slide, turning the wheels has little to no effect.

How an ABS system works involves a tremendous amount of electronics and engineering. In layman’s terms, the heart of the system is a controller that regulates how much pressure is applied to each wheel when you step on the brake pedal. There is a speed sensor attached to each wheel that constantly feeds information back to the controller. When braking, if one of those sensors goes to zero, that indicates the tire is skidding (or locked). At that point the controller activates a valve that releases the pressure from that wheel. Once the wheel unlocks and again sends back a speed reading, the controller reapplies the brake pressure. It’s alot like the old “pump the brakes” process except much more efficient and effective. The controller can cycle the pressure on and off ten to fifteen times per second and only on the wheels that are locked so that the wheels with good traction can continue working to stop the vehicle.

If you have ever experienced an ABS assisted stop you likely heard a buzzing/ fluttering noise from under the hood and felt a vibration in the brake pedal. When starting the vehicle, the ABS light may flash for three seconds and you may a buzzing noise from under the hood as it goes through a self-diagnostic test. Both conditions are completely normal. If the light stays on or continuously flashes, have the system checked ASAP. The hydraulic portion of the braking system may be working properly, but you jeopardize getting yourself into a difficult situation that may require ABS, and while the light is on, the system is typically inactivated.

ABS systems require little maintenance; check your owner’s manual for recommended service intervals. What does require diligence is the condition of you tires. Even with ABS, your vehicle can only stop as well as it is connected to the road. If your tires are mismatched, or low on air, the antilock system will not be able to function properly. If you have a small space-saver spare and have occasion to drive with it on the vehicle, the ABS lamp will probably come on since the smaller tire will be spinning much faster than the three normal size tires and therefore confuse the controller. Check the owner’s manual before scheduling a service appointment.

Anti-lock brakes are a valuable safety feature worthy of the additional cost, if any, when purchasing a new vehicle. As an added feature, opting for ABS may include a Traction Control System or TCS. We’ll discuss that system next week.
For more information check out http://www.acdelco.com/service/systems-guide/brake.htm

EPA Mileage vs Actual Mileage

2008-01-22T17:37:00.000-05:00

In 1980, I became the proud recipient of a New York State driver’s license. After learning how to drive, park and make u-turns. I learned how to wait on line to buy gasoline. With the prospect of gasoline prices reaching $4 per gallon, today just as back then, fuel economy is a primary factor when considering a new car purchase.

Very often people complain that their vehicle will not get the miles per gallon numbers that the manufacturer printed on the window sticker. If you’re included in this group, or are considering a new purchase, you need to know how this system really works.

First, the mileage statistics on the window sticker are not calculated by the manufacturer. The tests are actually performed by the Environmental Protection Agency.
Second, in order to keep the tests fair and accurate, each vehicle is tested under controlled conditions.
A vehicle driven on a hot street in Florida will perform differently than if it were on a snow covered road in Alaska. Standardized testing removes these types of variables and while it doesn’t mimic real-world driving, it levels the playing field. Vehicles are tested in a climate controlled building while running on a treadmill-like device at specific speeds for specific times to simulate city and highway driving. While the driving conditions are not realistic, the results of the test are a realistic account of what the vehicle can deliver. More important, it provides an accurate comparison of one vehicle to another.

So, use those EPA figures as a comparison not a performance guaranty. While a car that’s rated to get 28 mpg may not deliver that, it should certainly perform better than a car rated at 22 mpg. Weather conditions, elevation, vehicle loading, traffic conditions and driving styles play the greatest role in influencing gas mileage – all of which are negated by the EPA’s test procedures.

For more information, visit http://www.fueleconomy.gov/ where you can get EPA ratings for vehicles from 1985 to 2008! You can also print a fuel economy guide and read more about the testing procedures.

Conversion Vans - Beauties or Beasts?

2008-01-13T13:40:00.000-05:00

While attending a recent new car show, I noticed one of the “manufacturers” touting their wares was a builder of conversion vans. Except for the Alltel commercials, I don’t see a lot of conversion vans around anymore – and perhaps with good reason.

The “concern” I’ve always had with conversion vans (and by the way, there are other conversion trucks) is the fact that you have two manufacturers involved in building one vehicle, and that can lead to repair and warranty issues.

The vehicle manufacturer Chevrolet, GMC, etc., builds the van and sells it to the conversion company. http://www.gmfleet.com/pages/shopBy/Sport_Cargo_Vans_byBrand.jsp?seo=goo_conversion_vans The van purchased by the conversion company or upfitter, is typically equipped with a dashboard and a driver’s seat, like a delivery truck. The conversion company then installs the fancy seats, seat belts, carpet, interior panels, insulation (maybe), lighting, electronics, rear heat, air conditioning, and additional wiring harnesses and fuse panels to power it all. To the exterior, they apply the paint, graphics, fender flares, wheels, tires, running boards, etc, and in some cases, the roof extension. “High top” vans are not built that way at the factory but have the original roof cut off and a new roof installed. The roof and any added windows can have a dramatic effect on a vehicle’s comfort, ride and handling characteristics. The conversion company customizes the vehicle to meet their specifications. The additional weight and power requirements impose additional strain that may exceed the manufacturer’s specifications.

So, here’s where the problem comes in. The vehicle manufacturer will warranty their product, or portion that they built, for the prescribed warranty term. You may have read in your warranty booklet that the warranty may be voided by evidence of neglect, abuse or modification… but let’s not even go there. The conversion company is responsible for everything else. What else? For how long? These are good questions to ask before buying the vehicle!

At purchase, customers may be told that the vehicle is covered under warranty for 3 years/ 36,000 miles. While this is usually true, they are not advised that there are actually two separate warranties in effect. Most conversion companies will match the manufacturer’s warranty term but do not offer such amenities as Roadside Assistance or Alternate Transportation. Needed replacement parts are mailed from the factory and may cause the customer to be without the vehicle for extended periods. Down time is further accentuated by the fact that conversion companies do not usually print repair manuals to assist technicians in the proper diagnosis and repair of their systems.

GM is not affiliated with any of these companies and General Motors does not warrant any upfitter installed parts. In the event of a conversion related concerns, the best you can do is work with the selling dealership since they have a working relationship with the conversion company.

NOTE: Conversion companies have also been known to customize such vehicles as Suburbans, Yukons, Silverados, and Sierras. The “upgrade” package is typically less dramatic but may include leather seating surfaces, custom dash and other trim (ex. woodgrain) appointments, entertainment systems, wheels/ tires, running boards and graphics.

The moral of the story is, before buying a conversion vehicle; know what you’re getting into. Check out the conversion company (upfitter) online, ask how long the dealer has been working with them, ask about what happens if the vehicle has a problem while you’re out of town, or if you move. Will you have to pay for repairs and then try to get reimbursed by the company? If you buy and extended warranty policy, will they cover conversion related failures? Weigh your options carefully before committing. They look great, but bring along their own baggage.

Thanks for visiting my blog!

OnStar - On the Job

2008-01-02T22:11:00.000-05:00

“I’ve locked my keys in the car…” is the typical distress call advertised to promote the advantage of having OnStar service in your vehicle. Although this is likely the most common service provided, there are many others that do not get as much publicity.

First, a quick summary of how it works; OnStar uses a Global Positioning System or GPS in addition to cellular phone service to keep in touch with you and your vehicle. It is also tapped into the vehicle’s electrical system for power, information and to perform some specific actions. The GPS uses satellites to locate your vehicle within just a few feet of its actual position.

One of my favorite features is the vehicle alert that is of particular value to those who lose our vehicles in parking lots. OnStar will beep the horn and flash the lights for several minutes.
Other valuable features include stolen vehicle tracking. By using the GPS signal, OnStar can lead police to your vehicle’s location if it were ever stolen.
There is also an on-board diagnostics feature. If the Service Engine lamp should come on, calling OnStar can offer some reassurance as to whether there is a serious issue of just a loose gas cap triggering the light.
In case of tragedy, OnStar will call the center and notified them if your vehicle’s air bags deploy.
There is also an emergency (panic) button that provides a link to emergency services.
Of course it also offers hands-free cellular phone service which can be used to call for roadside assistance – providing you’re not calling for help with a dead battery.

Which is one of OnStar’s few weaknesses. It relies on the vehicle to provide it with electricity. It also requires a cellular coverage area and a view of the sky to communicate with the satellites. Tunnels and mountains are not OnStar friendly.

All of these features are typically included with your new OnStar equipped vehicle – of course additional features are available for additional fees.
Is it worth the money? Well, at one time seat belts were optional and many believed they weren’t worth the money… Get more info at http://www.gmonstar.com/

Thanks for reading my blog!

Major Repairs Part 2 - Last-ditch Efforts

2007-12-25T02:17:00.000-05:00

Now, if your not the vehicle’s original owner, didn’t buy the car from the dealer, it has over 100,000 miles, you didn’t get an extended warranty policy, and your idea of maintenance is changing the oil on rainy days when there’s nothing better to do, here are some other options you may consider when faced with a major repair.

1. Ask about using after-market (different manufacturer’s) parts. They wont carry the same warranty coverage as the factory parts but if the work has to be done and you don’t have the money, it’s a viable option since parts are often more costly than labor.

2. Depending on what failed, used parts are sometimes available and reliable. Salvage yards have come a long way since I was a kid rummaging around at the old car graveyard. Many places now inspect, clean and test their parts before selling them, and offer a warranty. I would never suggest buying used air conditioning, transmission or internal engine parts, but items like windows, door hinges, wheels and such are pretty safe bets.

3. Last but not least, shop around. Depending on the repairs needed, a specialty shop can be cheaper than a general repair facility – dealer or independent. For example, a torn seat can be repaired with a new seat cover for $500 or an auto upholstery shop may be able to sew in a new section for half the price. Transmission shops, tire stores, car stereo shops – are all geared toward that one specific type of repair; therefore, they can often do the work cheaper and pass the savings on to the consumer.

4. Ask your service advisor, mechanic, etc if there’s any way to reduce the cost. This goes back to the basic concept of having a repair facility that you trust.

I recently dealt with a failure on my Saturn that involved a $1400 repair quote. Following my own advice, I asked my service advisor for consideration since I purchased the vehicle there. She offered a 10% discount. Appreciative, but still grieving at the expense during the holiday season, I called Saturn Corporation. I plead my case – a two-time Saturn buyer, loyal to the local dealer, having to replace a part that “rarely ever fails” as I was told by various sources. I asked for help with the cost not full coverage. They contacted the service manager at the dealership and he called me with an offer I couldn’t refuse.
Saturn of Port Richey comes through again!

It is so important to choose a mechanic and/ or dealership as you would a doctor. Don’t just look in the phone book or believe everything you hear on television. Ask around, check with the better business bureau and consumer driven, on-line services, like Angie’s List.

Thanks for visiting my Blog - I hope this helps...

Dealing with Failures (of the mechanical type)

2007-12-15T17:58:00.000-05:00

It is said that the sales department sells the first car but the service department sells every subsequent car. If you like the salesman and the product, you’ll buy the car, but if you get exceptional service after the sale, you’ll come back to possibly buy again.

That said, the service department is committed not only to profits margins but to their customer satisfaction index (CSI) as well. As with sales, prices quoted in the service and parts department are flexible and dynamic. Dynamic in a sense that a door handle for a Cadillac will cost more than a door handle for a Chevrolet, and suggested parts prices are update from GM on a weekly basis. Unlike a new car that has a window sticker displaying the suggested retail price that stays there until the car’s sold, a part at one dealership will not necessarily cost the same as at another dealership – and that's why the pricing is flexible. Dealerships are independently owned and operated and create their own pricing matrix. Like buying gasoline, you can shop around for new parts. Like comparing gas prices, it’s up to you to decide whether it’s justified to drive all over town for the amount that you may save.

Just as when buying a car, if you’re buying an expensive part or service, ask if that’s the best price they can offer you. Ask if there are any discounts available for repeat customers, customers who bought the car there, senior citizens, members of the local car club, etc. Don’t expect them to just offer discounts since, as we said last week, everyone works on commission. I was recently given a $1400 repair quote from my local Saturn dealer. I lamented over such a great expense during the holidays and asking if there any thing she could do to lower the cost, I was offered a 10% discount since I bought the car there. That’s $140 saved by asking for consideration.
Another avenue available when faced with an expensive repair is contacting the manufacturer. Tell the customer assistance agent how you have been a loyal customer, have owned several of these vehicles and how this one is disappointing you. Tell them how you like the dealership and want them to make the repairs, but you can’t understand how such a well maintained vehicle could have such a catastrophic failure.
If you have a good case, they will likely offer help. Manufacturers spend millions of dollars in advertising trying to get new customers – a few hundred dollars to keep a customer is a worthy investment.

Here are some points (as they apply) that you want to be sure to include in your conversation with customer assistance: (be sure to have your VIN handy before calling)
1. You purchased the car/ truck new or certified used from one of their dealers.
2. You have purchased their products before and would like to again in the future.
3. You maintain the vehicle well and have all the maintenance records and/ or they can be confirmed by the dealership.
4. You understand that you’re out of warranty but… (this is where you need a business case such as: I never had a car with a failure like this before; The cost seems excessive; I was told that this is a common failure; I maintain the car well and don’t feel I am responsible for this.) …so I think you should help me with the repair expense.
5. Be reasonable in your request. They may ask you to bring it back for further testing or to a different dealer for a second opinion. They don’t know you, cant see the vehicle but have to substantiate any goodwill gestures. If they don’t feel they can do that they will simply tell you so.
6. Gratitude is always appreciated. If the manufacturer agrees to help that often means the repair becomes a warranty claim with you making a co-payment. The service advisor, parts department and technician all make less commission on the repair than if you were paying the whole bill.
Remember to thank them for helping you - you may have to ask again someday.

Dealership Operations Part2 – Service and Parts

2007-12-10T18:45:00.000-05:00

As with the sales department, most service, parts and body shop employees are paid for what they produce, not by the hour. The friendly people who take your information and write down you requests and concerns are commonly known as service advisors. Their pay scales and plans vary but most are paid a salary plus commission. The commission is usually based on the amount of customer paid work they have taken in and sold. Repairs covered by warranty are not typically included. The manufacturers frown on commissioning warranty repairs since they do not want to encourage selling warranty repairs to the customers. If a covered item is broken, it will be fixed and paid for by the manufacturer. Warranty coverage is a given – it’s not something that has to be packaged, advertised and sold to a customer. Therefore the service advisor has little to do with it.

Next, the vehicle is taken back to a technician for the requested service or repairs. Technicians work on a system known as flat rate. Simply stated, each and every service procedure is given a flat rate time (an average time to do the work). The technician is credited that amount of time when the task is completed regardless of how much time he/ she has actually spent. The theory is that a more experienced, better skilled technician will accomplish a task in less time than a lesser technician. Both are expected to accomplish the same goal with the same level of quality, but the superior technician has the opportunity to make more money by beating the allotted flat rate time.
The system works pretty well at keeping people motivated, and accountable, if properly implemented. To help maintain quality standards, any job that has to be re-done is performed at no charge. Therefore, neither the service advisor nor the technician make any money and miss out on opportunities to do so from other customers.

When it comes to warranty work, many people are under a misconception that warranty coverage means the dealership is performing the repairs for free and not making a profit – wrong. When something is covered under warranty, whether it’s a new car warranty, extended warranty, certified used car coverage, recalls, etc, the service and parts departments are making money. Overall, they may make less money on a warranty repair than if the customer were paying, but it’s still good business for the department.

The parts department receives updates from the manufacturer informing them of price changes – this happens more often than you think, and the price changing is the dealer’s cost. Each parts department sets up a pricing structure or matrix which sets the retail prices for a particular item. Small, inexpensive items are usually marked up more than larger items. Prices also inversely correlate to the supply and demand rule of business. The more popular an item is, the more competitive the price will be. Odd items that typically don’t need replacement (like interior trim pieces) must be special ordered and are disproportionately expensive.

Courtesy transportation is a provision of the warranty, but most dealers offer it to all service customers in the way of a shuttle service. Typically the shuttle will take you to work, home, or a local shopping mall is you’d like. See courtesy transportation on the Tips page for more information. By the way, the service department also gets reimbursed for every shuttle ride, rental car, etc as long as the vehicle is under warranty and a warranty repair is performed. So if you are told that they need to keep your vehicle overnight to complete a warranty repair, ask for a rental car – you’re entitled to it.

So to recap, almost everyone is working on commission in the service department which is not necessarily a bad thing. Everyone prefers customer pay work, but don’t do warranty work for free. As with the sales department, prices are negotiable. A $19.95 oil and filter change special isn’t but a $500.00 repair is. There will be more on how and why next week.

Dealership Operations Part 1 - Sales

2007-12-02T21:44:00.000-05:00

Many automotive patrons are unaware that nearly every employee they speak with is working on a commission basis. This revelation seems to answer many questions for people.
Aside from clerical and support staff, sales, service, parts, and body shop employees and managers are dependant on profits for their pay. The quasi-socialist theory is good – everyone works hard for the organization, everyone gets paid well. As with socialism though, the downfall is corruption and greed.
This is what separates good shops from the bad.

I’m sure few would be surprised to hear that that sales people work on commission – that’s why they’re so delightful when you’re looking at a sticker price and slowly morph to a barely tolerant state when you start talking rebates, discounts, incentives and just how much you know your trade-in is worth.

But what you may not realize is that the finance manager who is so non-judgmental, understanding and kind as he or she struggles to secure the best possible financing rate is also being compensated very well by the financial institutions they promote. Few know that the finance rate itself is negotiable. Here's an example:
I recently purchased a GMC Acadia. The finance manager assured me he worked out the best possible rate for me at 10.75%. I called my credit union and financed at 6.25%. Over the course of six years, I’ll save over $4000.00.

Additionally, all of the add-ons they promote are similarly padded. Paint protectants, tire warranties, window tint, striping, etc are all cash cows for the dealer. The only valuable item, extended warranty coverage, may be regulated by the insurance commission – depending on the state – so it may have a fixed price. But even then, if you want to save a few dollars, you could pass on the extended coverage from your dealer and instead purchase the plan over the internet from a dealer in a state that does discount the policy price. It worked for my doctor, but there is a time frame (I think 6 months) that you have to work with.

So, before going to check out the latest models, I suggest:
1. Research how much your trade in is worth ( www.kbb.com www.edmunds.com www.autotrader.com )
2. Call your bank, credit union, current finance company, and find out what kind of interest rate is available.
3. Research the type of vehicle that will suite your needs within your budget. We visited the New Car Autoshow – kids and all so that we could sit in each and every considered model.
4. Check for any and all incentives, rebates and special financing available in your region. ( http://www.gm.com/shop/currentoffers )
5. Don’t be swayed by overpriced add-ons. If you want the window tint, stripes, etc, ask the service department who does their custom striping work and then contact them directly.
6. It’s always best to shop toward the end of the month since everyone is working on a monthly goal or quota.

One final note – this information is general and likely applies to every dealership in your town. Regardless of manufacturer, domestic or foreign, the automobile industry has operated the same way for many years. Companies that post their best price on the window sticker and refuse to negotiate, will still negotiate interest rates, trade value, etc.

Next week we’ll discuss my forte’, the service and parts departments.
Thanks for visiting my blog!

Octane Ratings - Got Gas?

2007-11-25T21:00:00.000-05:00

· The recommended gasoline for most GM cars, trucks and SUV’s is 87 octane. In fact, in most cases, using a higher octane gasoline than your owner's manual recommends offers absolutely no benefit. It won't make your car perform better, go faster, get better mileage or run cleaner. In some cases, cold weather starting and performance may be compromised. Your best bet: follow your owner's manual.
· The only time you might need to switch to a higher octane level is if your car’s engine develops a heavy knocking noise when you drive. This happens to a very small percentage of cars.
· Unless your engine is knocking, buying higher octane gasoline is a waste of money too. Premium gas costs 15 to 20 cents per gallon more than regular. That can add up to $100 or more a year in extra costs. Studies indicate that altogether, drivers may be spending hundreds of millions of dollars each year for higher octane gas than they need.

What are octane ratings?
Octane ratings measure a gasoline's ability to resist engine knock, a rattling or pinging sound that results from premature ignition of the compressed fuel-air mixture in one or more cylinders. Most gas stations offer three octane grades: regular (usually 87 octane), mid-grade (usually 89 octane) and premium (usually 91 to 93). The ratings must be posted on bright yellow stickers on each gasoline pump.

What's the right octane level for your car?
Check your owner's manual to determine the right octane level for your car. 87 octane is recommended for most GM cars and trucks. However, some cars with high compression engines, like Corvette and certain luxury cars like Cadillac CTS, recommend premium (91 octane or better) or mid-grade gasoline to prevent knocking and ensure their best performance. Again Check The Owner's Manual - most models can be run on regular fuel if the vehicle is not being used under extreme conditions and doesn't exhibit any adverse reactions.

What about Gasoline Additives and Fuel Injector Cleaner?
To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. General Motors recommends that you buy gasolines that are advertised to help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean. If your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, try a different brand of gasoline.

Are all Diesel Fuels the same? What fuel is recommended for a Duramax Engine?
In the United States, for best results use Number 2–D diesel fuel year-round (above and below freezing conditions) as oil companies blend Number 2–D fuel to address climate differences. Number 1–D diesel fuel may be used in very cold temperatures (when it stays below 0°F or 18°C); however, it will produce a power and fuel economy loss. Avoid the use of Number 1–D diesel fuel in warm or hot climates. It may result in stalling, poor starting when the engine is hot and may damage the fuel injection system.

Sources:
2002-2004 Cavalier O/M
2004 Corvette O/M
2004 CTS O/M
2004 Duramax Diesel SupplementGM Service Information
www.fueleconomy.gov

Out of this World Service

2007-11-17T19:44:00.000-05:00

When someone is disappointed or downright mad about a product or service experience, they typically tell everyone they know about it. If the same person has a positive experience, statistically, they tell practically no one.
Well, after years of hearing tons of complaints, I am going against the grain and telling everyone about the Great experience I had today at Saturn of Port Richey.

Although I handle most of my own service work, I just cant justify investing $15000 in a wheel balancer to my wife. So, when needed, I utilize the Saturn dealer's excellent service department.
Yes, I actually practice what I preach and trust GM service facilities with my GM vehicle.
Anyway, I brought the VUE in for a tire rotation and balance, oil change (I had a coupon) and to get a second opinion on a gnarly rattling noise my air conditioning compressor has been making lately. I signed for the services and a $45 diagnostic fee to check the noise and retreated to the waiting room. Ten minutes later, the shop foreman spotted me, remembered my name, and we shared a typcal 'car talk' conversation. He promised to check on the car for me and at that I went to peruse the showroom. After checking out the new models, I walked the used car lot and ended back at the service department where I spotted Pat, the foreman. He agreed that the noise is coming from within the a/c compressor which he said is rather expensive and instead suggested (since the a/c is ice cold) driving it until it gets louder. I also ran a few other questions by him and he gave me a bunch of information and advice I could have gotten no where else. I went back inside, paid the bill and noticed that they didn't charge the diagnostic fee I signed for. When I asked about it they brushed it off and said not to worry about it. I love these guys. Walking outside, my VUE pulled into the service drive washed and vacuumed - even the windshield was cleaned. Like Snickers bars on Halloween, I handed out tips and left a happy man with more money left in my pocket than expected. My expectations had been exceeded in less than an hour.

These guys reinforce my belief that there are good, honest places left on Earth to bring your car and not only get what you pay for, but actually get more than expected. I've purchased my last two vehicles at Saturn of Port Richey and foresee buying there again. They dont sponsor my site, and I drive past 3 other GM dealers to get there, but I get a fair price for my trade, pay a fair price for a car, and the service is so good that I'm tempted to hang up my oil filter wrench for good.

Check Engine – yup, it’s there!

2007-11-12T11:08:00.000-05:00

All vehicles manufactured with computerized emissions controls are required by law to have an indicator designed to alert the operator of a system malfunction. Hence the Check Engine lamp, Malfunction indicator, idiot light, etc. was born.

At the dealership, “Check Engine light on” was one of the most common complaints that we diagnosed. Questions you should prepare to answer included: how long has the light been on, does it flash or stay on continuously, does the car seem to perform properly (ex poor fuel mileage, bucking, hard to start, etc.), have there been any modifications to the car, and last but not least – when did you last purchase fuel?
I have known of a few customers who received bad gasoline but the primary reason for the question refers to the gas cap.

In my experience, one of the most common causes for check engine light illumination on GM vehicles is the improper installation of the gas cap after refueling. Since gasoline fumes are toxic they are a consideration of the vehicle’s emissions control system. The system is monitored to ensure that no fumes are allowed to escape while the engine is running and/or the ignition on.

Therefore, if a driver fills the tank while the engine is running, or more commonly, does not tighten the cap until it clicks (3 times is my suggestion) there’s a good chance the on-board computer will detect an emissions failure and the check engine lamp will come on.

Most GM owner’s manuals recommend checking the gas cap and considering recent driving conditions, specifically if the vehicle had been driven through standing water or in heavy rain. Extreme weather conditions, and extreme operation can contribute to a check engine light coming on; aside from rain, icy conditions, extreme temperatures, and towing can put additional forces on the vehicle’s powertrain and set the light.

So what’s a responsible owner to do?
First check all the obvious things. Is the gas cap tight? I would remove and reinstall it. Check all the fluid levels and tire pressures. A low tire on a vehicle with all wheel drive could trigger the light. Check the fuses. Beyond that, you need professional help. Some aftermarket parts retailers have diagnosis equipment and will test the computer system for little or no charge.

One more thing you need to know – if the gas cap was loose, one tire nearly flat, etc, the light probably won’t go out immediately. Many “codes” that put the light on are set only after reoccurrence of a failure. Therefore, it takes several “key cycles” (ignition on/off) to clear the code out of the computer and turn the light off. “Soft” codes, like a loose gas cap can usually be cleared by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. If the light comes right back on once the engine starts, it is likely being triggered by a “hard” code which is a more serious failure and will need to be addressed by the dealer or other competent repair facility. Also, it's OK for the light to come on during the "lamp test" when the ignition is turn on but the engine not running. This is to let you know that the bulb itself is not burnt out - it should go off within a few seconds of the engine starting.

Tires

2007-11-03T23:03:00.000-04:00

During my career I can recall several complaints from younger GM owners who were very upset that their vehicle would not “peg the speedometer” or that the vehicle would not go over 108 miles per hour.
All were surprised when I would inform them that this condition was probably related to their tires.

Attempting to be a responsible manufacturer, GM engineered the computer that runs the engine to limit the top speed of the vehicle.

Why and how does this make them responsible, you ask?

Well, one of the specifications that tires are rated to is a speed rating. A common tire with and S speed rating is designed to travel up to 112 mph. So to help avoid the unfortunate and sometimes deadly occurrence of a high speed tire failure, GM engineered a governor of sorts that keeps the engine from powering the vehicle over the speed rating of its tires. Aftermarket software can by-pass this feature and on a high performance vehicle, such as Corvette which come with Z rated tires (149 mph+) it becomes a non-issue. Obviously, upgrading the tires changes nothing as far as the computer’s concerned.

There’s a great amount of information stamped or molded into tires but the most important things to know are these: always buy the same size tires, always buy tires with at least the same speed, traction and temperature ratings, check the air pressure and inflate to what the vehicle manufacturer recommends – not what’s stamped on the tire. For maximum comfort and wear you should have your tires rotated every 7500 miles and balanced yearly or whenever you feel a vibration.
Here’s a quick breakdown of what all those numbers and letters on the sidewall mean:
P – Passenger Car Tire.
225 - The width of the Tire from sidewall to sidewall in millimeters.
60 – the Aspect Ratio – the relationship of the tire’s height compared to its width –performance tires usually have a lower ratio – the tires are wide and thin.
R – Indicates a Radial ply tire.
16 – is the size of the opening in the center and the matching size wheel.

The Speed Rating is located in one of two places; either before the R as in SR, VR, etc or after the Load Rating code which is also a serious consideration on trucks and SUV’s that are used to carry heavy loads.
So next time you need tires, P225/60SR16 will mean more to you than just being the tire size.

For more information without sales pressure, check out my website, How Stuff Works from the Links page, or your Owner’s Manual.
Don’t have one? Sign up at mygmlink (Links page) and access one anytime!

Recalls, Service Bulletins and Special Policies

2007-10-27T22:17:00.000-04:00

Recalls – There have been tons of recalls, some voluntary, others mandated. In the event of a recall, the manufacturer is committed to notify current owners – for automobile owners they use DMV records – then correct the deficiency at no cost to the owner. With this in mind, if you should be a recall participant at some time, don’t fall for “Well, GM will cover this in the recall, but you also need…” Recalls are free advertising for a dealership – trust me, I’ve sent out thousands of recall reminders, whenever the shop was slow. Ask if the service needed is related to the recall. If so, call customer assistance, tell them what the dealer said, and ask the manufacturer to help pay for the repair. If not, use your best judgment with the dealership.

Service Bulletins – These are documents sent to dealerships to help technicians recognize and correct a condition that has been identified to be common in a particular vehicle. Sometimes, depending on the concern, service bulletins morph into recalls. Not often though, since service bulletins typically address less serious issues than recalls do. The other difference is, if your vehicle is eligible for a recall, it needs it. If there’s a service bulletin on your vehicle, it may never actually experience the condition described in the bulletin, or you may never notice it.

Special Policies – Recalls are publicized, service bulletins are discreet, and special policies are somewhere in between. Occasionally, a manufacturer becomes aware of a chronic condition, usually one that involves high repair expense that they decide to help customers with. For example, if an internal engine part that typically lasts 100,000 miles is identified to be failing at 40,000 to 50,000 miles, the manufacturer may elect to issue guidelines to its dealers for voluntary assistance with the repair. Typically there are age and mileage limits, the vehicle can’t show signs of abuse, neglect, etc. It also helps if the vehicle is brought in by the original owner. Unlike a recall, there may be a co-payment that the owner must pay. So, next time something fails before it typically would, ask your dealer (or customer assistance) if there are any applicable recalls or special policies that may cover the repair. If not, tell them that you feel the part should have lasted longer than it did, you’re the original owner of the car and have been buying their products for many years – they may just help you anyway! P.S. – don’t lie about being the original owner, etc. they can and do check those things.

The VIN – your car’s SS number

2007-10-21T20:19:00.000-04:00

For over 30 years, manufacturers have been using a Vehicle Identification Number to identify and individualize their products. Each car, truck, van, motorcycle and even mobile home manufactured today is assigned a specific VIN. Although my specialty is GM information, I believe most manufacturers follow a similar system. Since 1981, all VIN’s have contained seventeen characters. Prior to 1981, they were thirteen characters. Older, thirteen digit VIN’s have information arranged differently, but all can be deciphered to determine, make, model, engine, body style and plant.
The VIN is stamped into a special metal tag visible through the windshield, often attached to the dashboard. There are secondary VIN locations, some of which are proprietary to the manufacturer. Usually there is a label in the door jam, and a label in the trunk or on the spare tire cover that also contain the VIN. For several years, GM attached a small silver VIN label to all major body panels of most vehicles. This is no longer a common practice.

Vehicle identification numbers are not random digits assigned solely for identification – like a social security number. They contain specific information about the vehicle they are attached to.

Here’s the breakdown of a late-model GM VIN:

Digits 1-3 specify where the vehicle was manufactured – globally – 1= US Built
Digits 4 & 5 specify the series and model – FS = Pontiac Firebird & Convertible
Digit 6 identifies the body style – 1 = Two Door Coupe
Digit 7 specifies the type of safety restraint system used – 1= Seat Belts (only)
Digit 8 is the engine code – L = 5.7 liter LS6 V8
Digit 9 is the Check Digit – Derived by some computer calculation, it validates the VIN
Digit 10 identifies the model year – 2 = 2002 prior to 2001 letters were used - 2000=Y
Digit 11 is the Plant code of where the vehicle was manufactured
Digits 12 – 17 make up the Production Sequence Number which is obviously individual to the vehicle. Lower numbers typically indicate having been built earlier in the model year.

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Please check out my website at http://www.mygmconnection.com/

Parts Tip of the week

2007-10-12T21:24:00.000-04:00

Here's a quick tip:

If you need an expensive part for your vehicle, dont forget to call the local dealerships. I've seen people pay as much for salvage yard parts as a brand new. warrantied unit would cost. Also, I said dealershipS for a reason. Each dealership controls their own pricing when it comes to parts and service. Dont be surprised if the same part is cheaper at the Chevrolet dealer than the Cadillac dealer - or the other way around.

Plus, you end up with the Right part. A great example is an alternator. Many alternators look the same, but in fact the internal workings and electronics are very different. In an after-market store or salvage yard they ask for the year, make, model, engine size, whether it has a/c, etc. and hand you an alternator. At a GM dealership, the only piece of information they need is the vehicle identification number or VIN. They plug that into the parts catalog and it identifies the Right alternator designed for Your car.

Only New Cars come with suggested retail price labels that tell you what your getting and how much it should cost - not parts and certainly not service - that's a future tip.

Thanks for visiting my blog.
Please check out my website at http://www.mygmconnection.com/

Coolant/ Antifreeze

2007-10-06T21:37:00.000-04:00

With winter fast approaching, I felt compelled to share some information regarding engine coolants. There are two major types. First there is the familiar Green Coolant which has been around for ages and is glycol based. The other option is an Extended life Coolant which has been around since about 1995.
Standard green coolant was intended to be replaced every two years or so and otherwise did a fine job of protecting the cooling system.
Extended life coolant, or Dexcool as GM calls it, was designed to offer the same level of protection but a service life of up to 5 years or 150,000 miles.
Some coolants claim to be compatible with either style but some old school technicians are skeptical. To the best of my knowledge the general has always warned against mixing conventional coolant with extended life coolant just as you’re advised against mixing synthetic motor oil with conventional oil. The result is a brown mud that clogs up the whole cooling system.

Notice I haven’t mentioned anything about keeping water from freezing yet?
That’s because offering anti-freeze protection is only one performance aspect of your car’s coolant. The coolant is also responsible for lubricating internal moving parts like the water pump and thermostat, while also keeping the system clean by helping to inhibit corrosion and mineral build-ups.

The next thing to consider is strength. At one time coolant was sold by the gallon and was intended to be mixed 50/50 with clean water. Today, coolants are offered by most parts stores in either full strength or a pre-mixed solution. For topping-off your system pre-mixed is the way to go. Good coolant should provide protection to -30 degrees F. Your vehicle’s cooling system is a “sealed” system. Antifreeze is not a fluid that is intended to be consumed during normal operation. The coolant level should be relatively stable as long as it’s always checked with the engine cold. The level will vary depending on engine temperature since antifreeze expands when hot.
** Never remove a radiator cap while the engine is hot! **

Well, that’s the basics. A question I was often asked was why a car that never leaves a hot climate, like Florida, would ever need antifreeze? Well, the only other practical option is water which is not a good idea. Automotive engines are built with many parts made of steel. When steel is exposed to water you get corrosion – commonly called rust. Not only does rust never sleep, but rust in your cooling system will clog the radiator and heater core while causing the water pump bearings to wear at a rapid rate. Another consideration is that water boils at 212 degrees while the average engine these days has a normal operating temperature around 210 degrees.
So why not focus on coolant’s anti-freezing quality? Because it also raises the boiling point of the water so that the engine doesn’t vaporize it right out of the system.

To summarize, coolant is more than antifreeze – it raises the boiling point as well as lowers the freezing point, lubricates and keeps the cooling system clean. Only use the type of coolant recommended by the vehicle manufacturer, check the level once a week, and replace it at the prescribed intervals. Or, ignore the system, and save your money for replacement radiators, water pumps, heater cores, thermostats, head gaskets, etc. By the way, a few GM vehicles come with a blue antifreeze and some imports use a red color. Both are basically glycol based but always check your owner's manual to be sure.

Fuel Economy – How it’s Rated and Manipulated

2007-10-02T14:14:00.000-04:00

EPA Fuel Economy Estimates Are Posted On The Fuel Economy Label Of All New Vehicles.

The Intent Of These Values Is For Comparison Among Different Vehicles.
If vehicles were tested under "real world" conditions, they would suseptible to many variables such as climate, road conditions, individual driving habits and traffic.

How are fuel economy estimates obtained?
The fuel economy estimates are based on results of tests required by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). These tests are used to certify that vehicles meet the Federal emissions and fuel economy standards. Manufacturers test pre-production prototypes of the new vehicle models and submit the test results to EPA. EPA re-tests about 10% of vehicle models to confirm manufacturer's results. The vehicles are driven by a professional driver under controlled laboratory conditions, on an instrument similar to a treadmill.

These procedures ensure that each vehicle is tested under identical conditions; therefore, the results can be compared with confidence.

There are two different fuel economy estimates for each vehicle in the Fuel Economy Guide, one for city driving and one for highway driving. To generate these two estimates, separate tests are used to represent typical everyday driving in a city and in a rural setting. Two kinds of engine starts are used: the cold start, which is similar to starting a car in the morning after it has been parked all night; and the hot start, similar to restarting a vehicle after it has been warmed up, driven, and stopped for a short time.
The test used to determine the city fuel economy estimate simulates an 11-mile, stop-and-go trip with an average speed of 20 miles per hour (mph). The trip takes 31 minutes and has 23 stops. About 18 percent of the time is spent idling, as in waiting at traffic lights or in rush hour traffic. The maximum speed is 56 mph. The engine is initially started after being parked overnight. Vehicles are tested at 68 F to 86 F ambient temperature.
The test to determine the highway fuel economy estimate represents a mixture of "non-city" driving. Segments corresponding to different kinds of rural roads and interstate highways are included. The test simulates a 10-mile trip and averages 48 mph. The maximum speed is 60 mph. The test is run with the engine warmed up and has little idling time and no stops (except at the end of the test).

Factors That Affect Fuel Economy:

These tests cannot simulate the conditions under which each vehicle is driven or each person's driving style. Therefore, the following driving conditions and behavior can affect your fuel economy:
· Aggressive driving (speeding and rapid acceleration and braking) can decrease fuel economy by as much as 33 percent at highway speeds and 5 percent around town. This can cost you as much as $0.49 per gallon.
· Driving at high speeds creates additional wind resistance, which reduces fuel economy. Each 5 miles per hour you drive over 60 mph is like paying an additional $0.10 per gallon.
· Excessive idling will decrease your average mpg, since idling gets 0 miles per gallon.
· Towing a trailer or carrying excessive weight can decrease fuel economy.
· Running electric accessories such as your air conditioner can decrease fuel economy. Limited, informal tests by EPA have shown a fuel economy reduction of roughly 5 to 25 percent for operating the air conditioner on "Max" compared to not using the air conditioner.
· Cold weather and frequent short trips can reduce fuel economy. Your engine doesn't operate efficiently until it is warmed up. In colder weather, it takes longer for your engine to warm, and on short trips, your vehicle operates a smaller percentage of time at the desired temperature.
· Driving on hilly or mountainous terrain or on unpaved roads can reduce fuel economy.
· Using 4-wheel drive will reduce fuel economy. Four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in 2-wheel drive. Engaging all four wheels makes the engine work harder and increases crankcase losses.

Vehicle maintenance: A poorly tuned engine burns more fuel, so fuel economy will suffer if your engine is not in tune. Keeping tires at the correct pressure and changing the air filter on a regular basis can improve fuel economy. Also, new energy-saving motor oils can improve MPG.

Fuels vary in energy content: A vehicle's fuel economy depends on the energy content of the fuel on which it runs-this has been determined by EPA and others and is consistent with combustion theory. The use of oxygenated fuels or reformulated gasoline (RFG), for example, can cause a small decrease (1-3%) in fuel economy. In addition, the energy content of gasoline varies from season to season. Typical summer conventional gasoline contains about 1.7% more energy than typical winter conventional gasoline.

* Using Fuels Of A Lower Octane Than The Vehicle Was Calibrated To Will Cause Poorer Fuel Economy.
* Using Fuel Of A Higher Octane Than The Vehicle Was Calibrated For Will Not Increase Fuel Economy.
* Variations In How Much Fuel Is Added To The Fuel Tank During Re-Fueling Can Greatly Affect Calculated Fuel Economy

Inherent variations in vehicles: Small variations in the way vehicles are manufactured and assembled can cause MPG variations among vehicles of the same make and model. Usually, differences are small, but a few drivers will see a marked deviation from the EPA estimates.

Additional factors include:

Axle ratio - numerically lower axle ratios (3.73:1 compared to 4.11:1) generally produce better highway fuel economy.

Brakes - brake drag (even a minimal amount undetectable by coasting), can have a significant negative impact on fuel economy.

Frequent accelerator pedal movement - will reduce fuel economy because of fuel enrichment during the periods of acceleration. Under such driving conditions the torque converter clutch (tcc) also disengages, contributing to fuel economy losses. (see aggressive driving)

Green engine - new vehicles have not yet had an opportunity for the engine to break in. A typical engine will take 3 to 5 thousand miles to break in and during this time period a gradual increase in fuel economy can be expected.

Parasitic loads - air conditioning and/or electrical loads, (headlights, heated backglass...) Also result in lower fuel economy, (typically less than 1 mpg difference, each 10 amps takes approximately .4 mpg).

Road conditions - road surface condition impacts fuel economy. Gravel and/or pot holed roads decrease fuel economy. Hills (vs. Level terrain) also negatively impact fuel economy. Even gradual imperceptible increases in elevation result in real measurable decreases in fuel economy. Similarly, driving in the rain or snow decreases fuel economy.

Suspension - vehicle suspension misalignment can cause poor fuel economy, new tires, tire rotation, and/or front end alignment may be required to correct fuel economy.

Tires - performance tires and/or tires with larger "contact areas," (like 60 series aspect ratio), can cause as much as 3 mpg lower fuel economy when compared to hard "thin" tires. Find out if the tire size currently on the car is the same as original equipment. Replacement tires taller than original equipment tires cause the odometer to read less than actual distance traveled. This will result in lower calculated fuel economy than actual fuel economy.

Tire pressure - harder tires, (more air pressure, or different tire compositions) result in better fuel economy. Do not exceed maximum pressure as labeled on the tire, typically 30-35 psi. The disadvantage of this is that the greater the tire pressure, the harsher the vehicle ride.

Transmission - on 4-speed automatics, it is possible to drive the vehicle in 3rd gear rather than "overdrive" and not perceive it. Driving a vehicle in 3rd gear rather than overdrive at highway speeds typically results in a 3 to 5 mpg penalty.

Vehicle weight - each 125 lbs. Of additional weight results in a .3 mpg loss of fuel economy. Thus, additional passengers, luggage ... Will decrease fuel economy.

Vehicle wind resistance - more wind "drag" means less fuel economy. Thus, hang-on luggage carriers, cat toppers, open windows and/or open trunk... Mean less fuel economy. (see "driving habits").

Why aren't there MPG ratings for large pickup Trucks and SUVs?
Vans, pickup trucks, and sport utility vehicles (SUVs) capable of handling over 8,500 pounds Gross Vehicle Weight are classified as heavy-duty vehicles. Fuel economy regulations do not apply to these vehicles, so they are not tested and fuel economy labels are not posted in their windows.

For more information, including fuel economy ratings for a specific make and model vehicle, visit the US Environmental Protection Agency website at http://www.fueleconomy.gov/

Source:
GM TSB #30-65-02
EPA website 2/2004

Jump Starting a Car

2007-09-27T21:46:00.000-04:00

When jump starting a car, always keep the black and red clamps separated. FIRST connect the jumper cables to the DEAD battery - Red to Positive (+ sign) and Black to Negative (- sign). Then connect the Red cable to the Good battery's Positive terminal and the Black cable to a good solid metal bracket on the engine or the Negative terminal if necessary.

Reason: A weak battery emits flammable vapors from its vents. When you complete the circuit by connecting the last cable, you will get a spark. By connecting the cables to the dead battery first, you eliminate the chance of sparks igniting the gasses and exploding the battery. By connecting the last cable to a metal bracket on the engine, you eliminate the risk of sparks igniting the good battery - you can't be too careful!

*Jump starting a car poses potential danger and risk of damage to either or both vehicle's electrical systems. Always consult your vehicle's Owner's Manual and follow their recommended procedure.

Be Safe

2007-09-26T21:19:00.000-04:00

For my first blog entry I decided to rant about one of my pet peeves.

What is wrong with people who drive down the street with young kids jumping up and down in the back seat of their car? It's a shame that you need a license to drive a car but any idiot can have a child. Driving, in and of itself, is an unsafe practice. Think about what your doing - you lock yourself into a hunk of sheet metal weighing over 2000 pounds, transporting 10 to 30 gallons of highly explosive gasoline which can be ignited by the several miles of electrical wiring, if not the internal combustion engine that powers the beast.
com·bus·tion - noun 1. the act or process of burning

But surprisingly, most people, around 43,433 in 2005 - almost 120 daily, actually die in their vehicles during collisions. Some accidents cannot be avoided but to not take proper safety precautions only adds to the recklessness that is known as driving. Be safe, be responsible, be good parents.